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Removing Engine in a E34 525i

Discussion in 'E34 (1989-1995)' started by Arash2002tii, Jan 29, 2009.

    Arash2002tii guest

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    Hey, if it's not too much trouble I was wondering if anyone can give me a step by step for removing the engine in a E34 525i with the M50, its Non-VANOS. I've got an idea of what to do but I was just wondering if theres anything i should be aware of with this car or any tips. Thanks in advance :D
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    Jeff Gomon

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    I have the Bentley manual for the E34 and can tell you this, that book walks you thru this procedure step by step. If your don't have a copy, check your local library, mine has two copies!!! Or, see if a local chapter member has one, or even your chapter. Our chapter has a few manuals for different models that were donated at some point. Anyway, the Haynes or Chilton manuals are also pretty good, but not as good as the Bentley. Very good pictures of connectors, bolts you do not want to forget, wire routing, fluid dump points, lifting points, special tools list and much more.
    I hope that helps in some way....good luck and let us know how it goes!!!!::D
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    mooseheadm5

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    A step by step? For free? +1 on the Bentley manual. My only advice is check everything several times to make sure you have removed anything that will prevent the motor coming out. The two big ones are heater hoses near the firewall and ground straps. I always seem to forget something and start to pull the motor only to have to reach in and pull some wire or something. That and leave the AC compressor with the car along with the PS pump. Hope you have some tools. A bellhousing extension is nice- it is a long extension that is 1/2" drive at the ratchet end and 3/8" at the socket end. A universal joint and a set of Torx sockets is essential.

    Why are you pulling the motor?

    Arash2002tii guest

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    Yeah I have all the necessary tools, I've got to replace the piston rings and various bearings and etc. I'm also putting in a new clutch for the guy. It's probably not necessary to pull the whole motor but my teacher wants me to (yes I'm in a class) and he's worked at BMW for 15 years so I don't argue with him one bit, not that I would either way. Thanks for the help though, if it was my car I definitely would have bought a Bentley manual. I didn't need a complete step by step really, I have most of it figured out I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. My list is kind of generic but I could post it if it would help to see if I'm missing anything.
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    mooseheadm5

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    Post the list so we only have to fill in a couple blanks.

    Arash2002tii guest

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    Here's what I got so far:
    1. secure the hood and take it off
    2. make sure to disconnect the battery
    3. disconnect the battery cables from the under hood and fuse relay box
    4. completely remove the battery and base
    5. disconnect the connecters from the ECM and PCM
    6. take off the main wire harness
    7. remove air filter, housing and intake air duct
    8. remove the resonator
    9. disconnect the IAT sensor connecter
    10. disconnect the engine wire harness connecter on the left side of the engine compartment
    11. relieve fuel pressure
    12. remove the evap. control canister hose and fuel feed hose
    13. remove the brake booster vacuum hose and fuel return hose and vacuum hose
    14. remove the throttle cable by losing the locknut then slip the cable out the accelerator linkage
    15. remove the grommet and wire harness claps then pull out the ECM PCM connecters
    16. remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt then remove the power steering (p/s) pump belt and pump
    17. loosen the idler pulley sensor nut and adjusting bolt then remove the air conditioning (a/c) compressor belt
    18. remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp
    19. remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly
    20. remove the shift cable
    21. disconnect the power steering pressure switch connecter and remove the wire harness clamp
    22. remove the radiator cup
    23. raise the hoist to full height
    24. remove the front tires and wheels/shield
    25. drain the engine coolant
    26. drain the transmission fluid and reinstall the drain plug with new washers
    27. drain the engine oil and put on the new washers
    28. remove the shift rod and extension
    29. remove all the compressors
    30. remove the shift cable
    31. remove exhaust pipe
    32. remove the damper forks
    33. disconnect the SWS pension lower arm ball joints
    34. remove the driveshaft
    35. lower the hoist
    36. remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses
    37. remove all the ATF cooler hoses then plug the ATF cooler hoses and pipes (if automatic)
    38. attach the chain hoist to the engine
    39. remove the left and right front mount bracket
    40. remove the upper bracket
    41. remove the transmission mount bracket then remove the transmission mount
    42. check that the transmission is completely free off all hoses, wiring, and fluid
    43. slowly raise the engine approximately 6 inches
    44. check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine and transmission
    45. raise the engine all the way and remove it from the car

    Let me know if anything's missing or unnecessary, thanks
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    mooseheadm5

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    It's close for most of it, but far off in a few spots. I'll fill in a few now and look over it again later. N/A means not applicable

    1. secure the hood and take it off
    You don't have to remove the hood. You can if you want, though
    2. make sure to disconnect the battery
    Duh. It is under the rear seat, BTW.
    3. disconnect the battery cables from the under hood and fuse relay box
    N/A
    4. completely remove the battery and base
    N/A
    5. disconnect the connecters from the ECM and PCM
    These stay with the car hooked up in their box. The engine harness disconnects with on round connector at the firewall.
    6. take off the main wire harness
    The engine harness can stay hooked up to the engine.
    7. remove air filter, housing and intake air duct
    Yup. The MAF stays with the airbox.
    8. remove the resonator
    Eh?
    9. disconnect the IAT sensor connecter
    N/A
    10. disconnect the engine wire harness connecter on the left side of the engine compartment
    See above
    11. relieve fuel pressure
    Good idea, but you can only do it by removing the pressure hose, so watch for fuel spray
    12. remove the evap. control canister hose and fuel feed hose
    Nope. But pull the pressure and return hose together, as they are right next to each other
    13. remove the brake booster vacuum hose and fuel return hose and vacuum hose
    Yup
    14. remove the throttle cable by losing the locknut then slip the cable out the accelerator linkage
    Kinda, you'll see how it works. Also, remove the cruise control cable the same way.
    15. remove the grommet and wire harness claps then pull out the ECM PCM connecters
    This is obviously for a completely different car.
    16. remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt then remove the power steering (p/s) pump belt and pump
    Something like that.
    17. loosen the idler pulley sensor nut and adjusting bolt then remove the air conditioning (a/c) compressor belt
    Again, something like that.
    18. remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp
    N/A
    19. remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly
    Only if you plan to remove the trans. You don't have to if you pull the radiator. If you pull the trans, then you can leave the slave hanging from the hose.
    20. remove the shift cable
    Linkage, not cable, but only if you remove the trans. Furthermore, if you pull the trans, you will need to remove the exhaust and the driveshaft.
    21. disconnect the power steering pressure switch connecter and remove the wire harness clamp
    N/A
    22. remove the radiator cup
    Remove the radiator to prevent smashing it when pulling motor. Try not to break the little clips that you have to use a small scredriver to release. Protect AC condensor with a board.
    23. raise the hoist to full height
    24. remove the front tires and wheels/shield
    Obviously, this is for a FWD car, so N/A
    25. drain the engine coolant
    Probably should do that before removing radiator.
    26. drain the transmission fluid and reinstall the drain plug with new washers
    N/A
    27. drain the engine oil and put on the new washers
    Yup
    28. remove the shift rod and extension
    Shoulda done that before pulling trans
    29. remove all the compressors
    A/C compressor should be left hanging by mechanic's wire.
    30. remove the shift cable
    N/A
    31. remove exhaust pipe
    If you haven't already
    32. remove the damper forks
    WTF?
    33. disconnect the SWS pension lower arm ball joints
    Suspension remains intact on this car
    34. remove the driveshaft
    Obviously must do this before pulling trans if you do so.
    35. lower the hoist
    36. remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses
    blah blah blah
    37. remove all the ATF cooler hoses then plug the ATF cooler hoses and pipes (if automatic)
    BTW, is this an auto or a manual? Either way, pulling the trans is not necessary, but may be the best way for you. You will have to find a clever way to hold up the front of the trans after you pull the motor
    38. attach the chain hoist to the engine
    39. remove the left and right front mount bracket
    Remove both top and bottom nuts on the motor mounts.
    40. remove the upper bracket
    N/A
    41. remove the transmission mount bracket then remove the transmission mount
    You can, BTW, pull the engine and trans together, but you have to have the car pretty far off the ground and have the engine/trans unit nearly 45 degrees to have enough room to pull it out.
    42. check that the transmission is completely free off all hoses, wiring, and fluid
    43. slowly raise the engine approximately 6 inches
    44. check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine and transmission
    45. raise the engine all the way and remove it from the car

    Check to make sure you removed the heater hose connection to the heater valve assembly. Ground strap is present somewhere, so don't forget that. These motors are very easy to pull. I did an S50 swap in 12 hours, then did an S52 swap in 8 hours on the same car 2 weeks later when we found out that one of the pistons in the "good used motor" had a broken ring land causing lots of oil consumption. They were designed properly, so the wiring harness goes with the motor, the PS pump and A/C compressor stay with the car, and basically it just lifts right out.
    Ever pull a trans on one of these or even your 2002? The manuals are easy, but the autos are more of a PITA due to the size, weight, and extra hoses, plus you must make sure that the torque converter stays with the trans instead of following the motor (trust me.) The autos, however, are easier to install because you don't have to line up the drive splines.
    I suggest you borrow a bentley manual, but at least get ahold of some kind of repair manual so you have the engine rebuild specs.
    Any questions?
    Good luck.
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    MGarrison

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    awwww.... I was gonna say -

    Step 1. Park Car. (Make sure engine is turned OFF!)
    Step 2. Remove Engine
    Installation is the reverse of removal.

    :p
    In all seriousness though, good luck w/ the project! :)
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    mooseheadm5

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    I alllllmost added installation is reverse of removal. It is a bit of a gag at our shop when one person takes something apart. Also, Alldata (Smalldata, Nodata) always says that, even when it is not true.

    94is, anything to add for this young tech?
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    alotawatts

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    gtopaul

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    I dropped the M50 out of my 92 Touring and inserted a 96 S52. Just took about a day since I had the replacement engine and trans ready to go and that includes doing the conversion from OBDII to OBDI. Much easier to drop the entire mess out the bottom if you have a lift/rack available. We drop all the engines w/suspension out the bottom at work. It just goes quicker and is really easier to get it all back together.

    Paul
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    mooseheadm5

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    That is how BMW installs the drivetrain. BTW, this only works if you have a lift, and it is only a better idea if you are swapping the whole drivetrain. I always pull them from the top if I am doing the just the motor because I don't have to mess with the steering, suspension, brake system, etc. and it is easier to pull the motor from the top and leave the A/C compressor with the car. Of course if you have an A/C machine, there is no reason not to pull the compressor with the motor. Normally to R&R a motor, it does not take a whole day at a shop, but bet on it taking longer if you have never done it before and don't have a lift.

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