Thought I would post some pics of my RB install...it was not the hardest job but not the funnest either LOL! I am about 30 mins from RB-turbo and met up with Rob to get my Rb turbos and man are these things impressive....almost to pretty to install. I must also say that the man making these turbos is a one of a kinf guy and takes pride in his work....very evident after talking to him. I may try to install these (I have nothing but time so....) LOL!! Still researching! Here are some pics: Torque specs: Bracket to cylinder head: 9Nm Coolant supply line to crankcase: 9Nm Coolant return line to crankcase: 8Nm Coolant return line to turbo: 8Nm Coolant supply line to supply line: 8Nm Exhaust manifold heat shield: 8Nm Oil supply line to crankcase: 20Nm Oil pressure line to turbo: 8Nm Oil return line to crankcase: 8Nm Oil return line to turbo: 8Nm Turbo manifold to head: 20Nm Snap this pic to save some others headaches, when I took the coolant lines off the OEM turbos I must have pryed on the flange and it slight bent it and when installed on the RB's W/spacers it caused a gap. I fixed it by reinstalling the lines on the turbos and tightening down and bending flange back (do not do this with Rbs since it could strip the threads). I rather strip a OEM than a RB LOL!!! If you want more than 20psi from your RB's you will need this: If using JB4 you haver to make this setting Good time to get all the dents out of your FMIC with this awesome liitle tool: Found out that a regular 10 MM socket or wrench has a bit of a tough time fitting on the "Front turbos" Coolant line nut, so instead of getting a thin walled socket a shaved down a 10MM 1/4" drive socket and it worked like a charm LOL!! Here is a comparision of a regular socket and shaved socket going on the nut, as you can see a regular socket hits.
Some reference pics of the lines Front turbo front: Front turbo rear: Rear turbo front: Rear turbo rear: Most people may know this but the tow hook can be used to lift the motor also...when on a jack it is pretty easy to lift the motor left and right to line up motor mounts by hand: You can get this device if you want to support it from top with the tow hook: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html New Parts Water pump/thermostat: V-band clamps: Very important to get all gasket material out of the head: Use new studs (Get 20-25 incase you have to take manifold off, or threads get damaged ect): Here is bolt pattern I used to get manifold on evenly, I ujsed the tradioutional way (star) and gasket got squished (slightly nothing bad): Way to take stud off nut without hurting threads, use bolt penatration liquid first: Use #45 Torx socket...a 11mm socket gets stuck most of the time on the nut:
There is access from the top on a lot of the bolts: Here is how the heat-shields are placed once on the turbos are installed, start to put these on BEFORE tightening manifold: Front turbo: Rear turbo: Before installing front turbo loosen induction tube for more clearance. After front tubo is installed connect vaccum line to actuator, if you wait you will be sorry lol!! Make sure induction tube is flush on turbo after: Wait to connect these lines until both turbos are installed: Front turbo on!!! While rear turbo is loose conect these lines together (Once bolted there is no play in the line): Oil line can be very tight, basically hard to hold in place with gasket wheile lining up holes, bolt in one side with the gasket on....then slid gasket over and tighten the other side: Top coolant lines can not be fully installed untill turbo is instalklled fully, put coolant line end lined up with holes (top right corned on front turbo and top left of rear) and when turbo is bolted down it will push line in)....Sorry couldnt get a pic. Here are some pics of the new waterpump/thermostate and the cute little Rb's LOL!!! RB's: Waterpump: Note:
