Hello there and welcome to the BMW Car Club of America.

If you are a BMW CCA member, please log in and introduce yourself in our Member Introductions section.

Painting Contour Wheels

Discussion in 'E36 M3 (1995-1999)' started by chicane, Sep 14, 2008.

    • Member
    • Technical Service Advisor

    mooseheadm5

    Post Count: 1,880
    Likes Received:15
    he said front and back. Does that mean 3 cans or 4?
    • Member

    chicane

    Post Count: 134
    Likes Received:2
    • Member

    Jeff Gomon

    Post Count: 147
    Likes Received:2
    2 silver and 3 clear...

    I have reconditioned a LOT of BMW wheels since I started painting in the mid 80's. None with the "rattle can" Wurth paint you are choosing to use, which is fine. Here is the skinny. You will need LESS silver and MORE clear. The clear covers and protects the base coat (silver). I would buy 2 cans of the silver and 3 clear. (you can always touch-up scratches with a new layer of clear, so overbuying the clear is not wasted) Most importantly, ensure you have a nice clean even surface on the fronts to paint the silver finish on. If you are concerned, get another can of silver for good measure. Scuff the wheels up with a red, then blue, scotch brite pad, wipe them down with thinner and spray. You do NOT need a heavy coat of the silver, the clear will make it "pop" and as I stated, protect it. You do not have to coat the rears as heavily with the clear as a more Satin finish is what is OE. The fronts on the other hand will require several coats of clear and should be given some dwell time in between coats. Even if you get runs in the clear coat, you can sand it and then polish it out. You can achieve a fairly decent finish and result with the rattle cans, no doubt. Key is to wait for the silver base to fully dry before touching or moving or flipping the wheel for clear coating, or you will bugger them up with fingerprints. Patience is golden and so is painting when the temp is above 70 deg. and not too much humidity or you will get cloudy clear coat. READ THE CAN, it will tell you.

    For me, I alway use a PPG base coat/clear coat automotive grade finish on any wheels I spray as the results are always excellent, and rival factory finishes. With some color sanding afterwords, you can achieve better than factory finishes, with no orange peel. It is more expensive initially to buy all the paint, catalyst, thinner, hardener and accelerator, but not having to worrying about the results, and how long it will last, are what I am interested about.

    Also, look for a local Wurth distributer as you can always get it from them without all the extra shipping restrictions and additional costs.

    Sorry for the lengthy reply....
    • Member

    chicane

    Post Count: 134
    Likes Received:2
    I think you are right on the money as far as the amount of paint and clear. I did switch from Wurth (very expensive) to Krylon Dull Aluminum. I had very good results with this.
    • Member

    alotawatts

    Post Count: 54
    Likes Received:0
    So...............How many cans ?
    • Member

    chicane

    Post Count: 134
    Likes Received:2
    2 and 1/2 Dull Aluminum and One can of Clear. I wanted and original look so I went easy on the clear. If you want a deep finish you can go heavy with the clear but the Dull Aluminum goes on really well and you really do not need too many coats as the clear takes the brunt of abuse.
    • Member

    Jeff Gomon

    Post Count: 147
    Likes Received:2
    Wheel Pics?

    Chicane,
    Do you happen to have any photos of the finished product? Just curious how they turned out.
    • Member

    chicane

    Post Count: 134
    Likes Received:2
    I'll take some.
    • Member

    granthr

    Post Count: 1,583
    Likes Received:2
    So that is for all four wheels? Not too bad if that is the case.

    GR

Share This Page