Hello there and welcome to the BMW Car Club of America.

If you are a BMW CCA member, please log in and introduce yourself in our Member Introductions section.

Car Audio Wiring?

Discussion in 'E30 (1984-1993)' started by neep3r, Mar 19, 2011.

    • Member

    harris318i

    Post Count: 19
    Likes Received:0
    • Member

    tiFreak

    Post Count: 523
    Likes Received:2
    ok, the one's I'm finding are probably just leftover NOS units since it looks like not many places still have them new, so even though they're discontinued you can still find new ones

    in any case it doesn't sound like the OP wants any kind of non-original unit so I guess it's a moot point

    neep3r guest

    Post Count: 47
    Likes Received:0
    Here's another wiring diagram for you guys, this one is for the OEM deck in case you chose to use a output line converter like me.

    [IMG]

    neep3r guest

    Post Count: 47
    Likes Received:0
    Okay, I've mounted the 4 crossovers under the read deck, mounted the 4-channel amp and line output converter (AudioControl LC7) below the rear deck, ran 14AWG speaker wire to all 8 speakers, and ran 2 pair - 14AWG speaker wire behind the head unit to connect the fader to the line output converter.

    The way the fader is wired from the head unit kind of throws me off a bit and I need your guys advice if you can stomach it. From the head unit there are two wires, LEFT (YEL) and RIGHT (BLU) that go into the fader and come out pairs for each side, LEFT (YEL/RED & YEL/BLK) and RIGHT (BLU/RED & BLU/BLK) - see my wiring diagram to see the wiring: http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff436/neep3r/wiring.jpg.

    Now for the hiccup, please look at page 89 on e30_86.pdf - notice how from the radio the left & right channel goes into the fader control, then to the amplifier... This makes me go cross eyed because I am trying to figure out how to properly wire to front left, front right, rear left, rear right.

    I guess the difficulty I am having is figuring out (after the fader) which pair is front left, front right, rear left, rear right... From the fader the cables connect to the line output converter, then to their own crossover (tweet & woofer - component set), then to the 4-channel amp.

    Thanks guys! :)
    • Member

    MGarrison

    Post Count: 2,907
    Likes Received:151
    If the first link you found and listed in your first post in this thread is correct, that's your answer. I basically said the same thing earlier -

    http://bmwcca.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9133&p=50635

    As mentioned, if the link you have there from 'Ted's House' is correct, you have your answer - but, if you have everything else wired and ready to be powered up, you can test your connections by just twisting the wires together and then solder 'em up after testing & confirmation.

    neep3r guest

    Post Count: 47
    Likes Received:0
    Update: The system rocks!! Everything is wired up and sounds great. The only thing I need to figure out now is if the memory power on the wiring diagram I posted can/should be used as a remote in on the line output converter. For some reason, the code on my head unit does not work anymore so I cannot tell if my head unit retains memory after power off or not... Does anyone know what could cause the head unit to not take the code anymore? Is there a lockout/security period? Workaround?

    Thanks again!
    • Member

    MGarrison

    Post Count: 2,907
    Likes Received:151
    You have 3 tries to enter the code, after that you have to wait I think 8 hourse before retrying - however, I don't know if you disconnect power to the head unit, if that will reset it so you can try the code again right away; easy enough to try though. If your unit's not accepting the code, how did you get it to play so you could listen-test the new amp & speakers? If the head unit doesn't take the code, it shouldn't play anything??

    neep3r guest

    Post Count: 47
    Likes Received:0
    Sounds easy enough, I'll give it a whirl in a few and let you know. My line output converter has an AUX input so I just hit a button I mounted below my light switch and I bypass the head unit. :)

    neep3r guest

    Post Count: 47
    Likes Received:0
    Weird... The code worked fine without having to disconnect the battery (or wait for many hours). Not sure what happened but all good now.

    The only problem I have is when I turn off the head unit, the speakers pop a little. The output line converter and amp only power on when they get a signal from channel 1 (YEL, LEFT). I'm guessing I need to wire the remote on the line output converter (has remote in and remote out, remote out is already wired to the amp).

    Update: I just found on a list of wire descriptions that the white wire coming from the head unit to the amp is power antenna & remote amp turn on. I'll give that wire a shot for the remote connection on the line output converter.
    • Member

    MGarrison

    Post Count: 2,907
    Likes Received:151
    Where? Here perhaps? :p

    Or... here? :p (4th wire-color listed, in case you missed it)
    Or... here? :p
    Glad to hear you're getting it together and it's working. ;)

    neep3r guest

    Post Count: 47
    Likes Received:0
    I am such a diagram whore aren't I? LOL. Unfortunately neither the violet/gray nor the white wire solved the problem of popping when the head unit is turned off. I did just think of something though, I only tried wiring those wires to the remote input on the line output converter, I should of tried wiring directly to the amp... I'll give that a whirl in the morning and let you guys know so you can stop pacing and biting your teeth at the suspense. lol

    Thanks again for all your advice MGarrison, things are working great and sound even better.

Share This Page