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Winter wheel change out

Discussion in 'DIY (Do-It-Yourself)' started by bfriesen, May 29, 2008.

    bfriesen guest

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    I am going to change out my winter wheels with my summers this weekend. Late, I know. Ordinarily I just take them off mount the summers with a torque wrench and off I go. Should I be doing anything more. Indie and dealers talk about how I should have it "professionally" done with cleansers and lubricants. Sounds like a facial or something. Seems pretty straight forward to me, but that may be my ignorance. Let me know.

    agranner guest

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    If your summer wheels are alloys (including factory alloys) you could put a SMALL amount of copper anti-sieze on the rotor flange where the wheel mounts. This is just to make it easy to get the wheel off. May not be a problem if it's only installed for 7-8 months. A mechanic I knew always cleaned this area with a sanding disc on a mini angle grinder. Couldn't hurt. I just wire-brush if there is any scale/rust.

    There are many conflicting ideas about thread lubricant. I don't use it, but I make sure the threads are clean. If there's any metal in the threads, I replace the bolts. I also check the torque after the first hard drive or the first week. Sometimes it changes (from the heat, I think).

    -- Aubrey Granner
    '93 325i

    bradley01 guest

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    While you have your wheels of, clean them and wax them! Makes for easier cleaning throughout the year!!!
    • Member


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    I've been doing mine since it was new (2000); late fall, late spring (I'm in Minnesota). My routine now is;
    1. a few days before changing wheels, squirt WD 40 or similar on the threads of each bolt
    2. a couple days later remove the wheel,
    3. clean the centering hole (whatitzname),
    4. use the anti-seize on the flange,
    5. mount the wheel,
    6. no lubricant on the bolts,
    7. torque,
    8. torque again in a couple days.
    Early on I had some very reluctant wheels and some impossible bolts. The anti-seize helps but is not foolproof. A last resort trick is; slightly loosen the bolts on the reluctant wheel, get the car rolling slowly -- less than 5 mph - then brake suddenly. It will break the rust in the mounting hole and it's not harsh enough to do any damage to the wheel or hub.

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