Hi - I plan to put my 2010 650i in storage for the winter. I still have the run flats on it and am wondering if anyone has any opinions on whether the "Flatstoppers" are something to consider or if they are just a gimmick. If they really work, they may be worth the $250, but it seems pretty expensive to me. Do the rigid sidewalls on the run-flats provide enough support? I've provided a picture of the product below. Also, does anyone have any recommendations on what type of charger to use to keep the battery in good shape? Comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thank you.
Please only post the same question in one thread. We will all see it. Most of just look at new threads. I have had success by just upping the tire pressures in my cars that I store. I usually go to 40-44psi. This reduces the amount of flat spotting for me. Run flats might be different though. For me if there is a little bit of flat spotting, it has always run out after the first drive of the season. If a run flat gets a flat spot it might take more of a drive to get it out because they are stiffer. Regarding a battery tender, BMW makes a very nice one and it is not too expensive. I believe Bavarian Autosport and BMP Design sells it as well as your local dealer. You can get it with either a cig plug on it or alligator clips, your preference. I like the alligator clips myself. I would also change the oil just before storage, make sure you have a full tank of fuel with fuel stabilizer, I prefer marine sta bil because it is formulated for enthanol in our fuel. Also take the car for a good run before storage, get it good and hot so there is no moisture in the exhaust.
After hibernation you may want to check for critters if stored indoors. I have found a mouse nest below my master cylinder one year and one under my cold air intake another.
Oh that reminds me. I always put moth balls in the trunk and engine compartment to keep critters out. They hate the stuff. Put the moth balls on a little plate or something so they are not touching the car. I don't know if they will hurt it, but why chance it. Inside the car a put an open full box of bounce dryer sheets. The mice hate this too and then the car doesn't smell like moth balls in the spring.
I believe the BMW battery conditioner is made by Battery Tender, and I just went with one of those off Amazon.com. Was less expensive that way.
That's correct. You can also buy them (Battery Tender) at a "Batteries Plus" store if there is one in your area.
You have some good input here. Ditto on most of it for me. I always get the tires off the cement, even if just driving up up onto boards. I also air up a bit. I have always filled the tank and done sta bil. For many years, I have just unhooked the battery with no ill effects. Ditto on moth balls around the car on the ground, pests hate that! I also close off openings like the input into the air filter box. Regarding run flats, I think they are more resilient due to the stiffer sidewalls. Good luck, and prepare for a long, boring winter without your car.
what about jacking the car up? These are all great winter storage tips... Can anyone comment on whether it is intelligent or not to jack up the car just a little if it will sit for this extended period of time? I hear of suggestions telling us to simply jack the vehicle in order to unload the springs, but I don't see many actually doing it. As previously owning an old musclecar ('71 Cutlass) I would jack the car high enough to take weight off the springs but not too high to lift any wheels. Is this even necessary with tightly-stanced, less cushy suspensioned German machines???.....are "cushy" and "suspensioned" even words?
I've considered putting my tii on jack stands, but then dream there is a fire and I cannot just drive the car out. 44 psi does it for me for an extended downtime.
I leave my ti sitting on the ground with the tires overinflated, never had a problem doing with my old stock springs or my H&R race/Bilstein sport combo
The Accumate charger is similar in price and a good option. In addition, it can handle modern battery types (AGM, etc). That can be an advantage if you get a Beemer to store with your Bimmer.
Winter Storage. Tires, Battery, and Full Tanik I haven't had any problems with leaving even the stiff run flat tires on my '08 over the winter On my '94, I left the battery in the car but disconnected for 2 years of storage. This year, the battery failed and I was told that I should have had it hooked it up on a battery tender to prevent premature failure of the bmw battery. It was an expensive lesson since BMW batteries and labor aren't cheap. I really thought it was something else. Put in the new battery and all was well. I had tried slow charging the old batteriy several times but the charge just didn't hold. Question, full tank of fuel, Why is it better to fill the tank? Is that to decrease evaporation. I was thinking in the past that why leave a full tank of fuel that would just deteriorate. I did put in the Stabil but only left maybe up to 5 gallons.
In the old days before sealed fuel systems, the water in the air in the tank would condense and sit on the bottom of the tank, rusting it, and clogging the fuel filter. Then, since it wasn't sealed, more moisture would infiltrate to balance the inside/outside humidity. Not so much a problem, now, as no new air containing more moisture can make it into the sealed tank; however a full tank won't have any air/moisture at all in it.
I should clarify. I did't leave the car in storage for 2 years. I meant that I just disconnected the battery for the two times I put it in storage with the battery disconnected. This year I will take the battery home with me and put it on the BMW advanced charger. I keep the 335i in my garage on a another BMW advanced charging system.
I am surprised that you had issue with the battery. I have been disconnecting my battery every winter in my M3 for over 8 years with no problem. It is a Diehard battery though.
