I recently purchsed an '01 530i and the keyless entry does not work. I can unlock everything with the key in the door but not with the remote. I have since replaced the fuel door acuator, trunk lock actuator and checked all the fuses. Is it time for me to have the keys reprogramed at a dealer? Anyone have suggestions?
Switch in Trunk Lock Mechanism Bad? Chasing down why my doors will not lock from the key. Replaced fuel filler and trunk actuators. I think I have chased it down to the lock itself. When the car is locked from the driver's door the trunk locks as it should. However, when I try to use the key in the trunk the trunk does not unlock. Additionally, when I turn the key to the far right (key hole is parallel to the ground), I can still unlock the trunk from the front door. According to the owner's manual, from what I understand, this should not be the case. Could this be the issue? Does anyone have any thoughts on how to test the microswitch in the trunk lock itself? Is the microswitch replaceable without replacing the whole lock? Anyone have a lock they want to sell? Adam
Before you go any further- let me get this straight. Your keyless entry does not work, but if you use the key in the driver's door, everything works fine? This usually means that you need to initialize your remote. Do that first, then get back to us.
Initialize remote Thanks for the info about initializing the key. Unfortunately, I tried this a while ago and didn't do anything. Thanks though.
If it didn't do anything, then you there are three reasons why it would not work. Either you did it incorrectly, the battery in the key is shot, or there is a problem with the reciever. Faulty actuators should not cause it to not attempt to lock or unlock with the remote.
Remote entry fixed Well, I took the car in to get the keys scanned at the dealership and they checked out fine. What they found was a 7.5 amp fuse where a 10 amp should be. Thanks to everyone with suggestions!
problem with power lock and remote I am having problem locking and unlockin door using the remote control. The remote control works only opening the trunk, which indicates that it doenst need to be reprogrammed. Power lock is also not working from the buttom located on the center console. However, it works when I lock or unlock from the door handle. The remote was working fine, stopped working once, worked again for 2-3 days and now is dead again. I dont know if it is related or not, but internal lights also stopped working when I lock or unlock from the door handle and open the door. Does anyone can help me with that?
Sounds like there could be a blown fuse, possibly a bad microswitch in either the driver or front passenger door mechanisms, or even a bad door switch. A shop with the proper scan tools could tell you what is wrong. Autologic, GT1 or Launch X431 are some of the capable tools. Generic OBD2 scanners will tell you nothing.
Thank you Paul for your help. I have checked all fuses and correct amp from the trunk and inside glove box. I think I will have to take my car to a shop and I will ask to have it scanned using one of the tools you mentioned.
Fixed! I was having problems with the central lock, remote key, and internal lights. The problem was originally caused by the central lock switch on the center console. The previous owner spilled coffee, drinks, and food over the console damaging the switch. The dirty locked the buttom between position opening and closing the locking system, forcing the system to turn off itself to avoid damage. Once the central lock was disarmed, the system also would not turn on/ off internal lights and would not recognize the command from the remote key. I had to take my car to a shop I found on http://www.bimrs.org/2008MapPage.html . I visited tree different shops and choose the one that seemed to be the best choice. Daniel B & M in Sunnyvale, CA provided me with an outstanding service and very reasonable price. They also fixed my alarm going off problem replacing the hood sensor. The scanner found more than 30 error codes, most of them from the hood sensor. Now I am very happy with my 525i 5 Speed. Thanks again MooseheadM5 for helping me. I cant wait to take my car to a Race track or Autocross. Thanks again.
Another SF Bay Area local... Hey man...I used to live in Sunnyvale at Central & Mary. I still teach down near DeAnza College on Saturdays so maybe we can hook up sometime. Anyway, too bad I didn't notice this sooner as I could've told you about the hood sensor and you could've easily DIY'd to save a few dollars. As a matter of fact, most of the time the hood sensor is just fine but the area on the hood insulation above the sensor has been compressed to the point that the hood sensor switch won't activate, which causes falsing in the alarm circuit. It thinks that someone is trying to open your hood cause the circuit is left open. I added a bit of material right at the depression and never have any problems. I hope they gave you the X5 since it has a longer stem, which accounts for the increased distance to the hood insulation so your falsing issue won't return. Otherwise, you can expect the falsing to continue... As for the locking problem, congrats on finding the fix as they are hard to diagnose. Especially if someone has spilled liquid into the console and you are unaware of it. Looks like you found an honest and competent Indy though so kudos to you on that fix as well. I, too, want to attend a track event at some point to test the motsy of my 540 and my skills in a controlled environment so maybe we'll run into each other at an event. Congrats again and see ya around the forum...
I'm having a similar problem with my 2003 540i regarding the key remote, central locking, and interior lights. I tried replacing the center console locking switch as suggested, no luck. Fuses are OK. My mechanic believes it could be the power module, but he's not sure. This is a $400 part + labor. What's worse, if it doesn't work, SOL. Once installed it can't be used on any other vehicle and all you've got is an expensive paperweight. Any suggestions?
