I don't think the dealer can change that. I'm surprised it came on that easily. Put it up on stands and drive it in reverse?
The plug from the original cluster is 1 mile less than the replacement cluster which is probably displaying the DME mileage. I didn't notice the tamper dot when I swapped the cluster with my 96 and being that the original cluster didn't have working warning lights, that's probably why I didn't see a problem with the original one. Didn't work in Ferris Bueller.
Thanks to someone on my ti site who provided me a link to http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f92/guide-e36-speedometer-mileage-match-up-t106273/ which led me to http://www.bmw-m.net/techproc/test.htm You can actually sync to the higher mileage and clear the tamper dot. Replaced intake boot and adjacent vacuum hose. No more rough idle. Next. Loose driver's window. Reassemble plastic housing around steering wheel. Valve cover. Then it's time to work on my 96 ti.
Cool tip. You need to be careful though. I'm guessing if the cluster was higher that the DME that it may take the cluster mileage and not the DME. But then again the 2 coding plugs (replacement and original) where only off my 1 mile. So who knows? Saved me a costly trip to the dealer. That dot would have bugged me.
I think you're right about the higher of the two mileages being the one retained. I don't think the coding plugs have any involvement though---don't they just say whether it's a 4 cyl or 6 cyl? And I don't think mileage info is stored in the DME. I know that some cars [e34 I think] store back-up odo info in the light control modules. I still don't think the dealer would have helped you at all---you know more about this car than they do.
Don't know what the coding plug really does. I thought there is an EEPROM in there. The replacement cluster had a mileage of xxx,103 and the original was xxx,104. I do know you can buy blank coding plugs. When my other car had the conversion the mileage started at zero. Who knows? Onto the valve cover, t-stat and window next.
Mileage started at zero, eh? curious. When we were doing 6cyl conversions into e30m3 bodies, we had to buy blank coding plugs to get the tach to go from 4cyl to 6cyl---that's the only thing I really know about them.
Registered car. Need a personalized license plate. Maybe BMW<space>CCA or CLBSPRT Replaced valve cover gasket.. Still smell some oil. Most of the oil was leaking from the spark plug gasket. Maybe old oil burning off? After replacing the cluster I notice the needle points all the way cold until it's running for about 10 minutes. ??? Also found the exhaust manifold is completely separated from the muffler. Hopefully I can get it welded. I have a lot still to do.
Attempted to replace t-stat but found cam sensor loom in the way. Need to remove cam sensor but first need to order a new cam sensor o-ring to be on the safe side. Decided to fix rattling driver's window. Reinstalled loose rubber guide with some RTV. Door missing vapor barrier. Tweeter wire broken which explains the crackling from the radio. Also missing 2 door panel supports which of course are not available without buying a door panel. In defense of the previous owner, he had the window regulator repaired, twice. Crappy work on the part of the dealer and independent. Don't really know which to blame. And now the chime rings when I open the door. ?? No key in the ignition.
What I thought was a broken pipe between the exhaust manifold to the muffler turned out to be a loose shield. Cheap fix. Had shield welded. I cleared out some things in the hatch since I heard a lot of rattling. Noticed water in the right storage compartment. Sucked the water water. Pulled the storage compartment and found sand. Cleaned it as best as I could. Drain plug also missing. Left side had sand too. Since I bought this car from someone on the east coast, I'm wondering if this was under water in Sandy? I think I just got the name for my car. Next on the agenda. Adjust e-brake handle. But do I do it the right way by jacking up the car, adjusted the shoes then going adjust the handle or just try to adjust the handle? Water temp stays in the blue until I hit the cluster. Wonder if it's the cluster electronics, loose connector or gauge? I may swap out the gauges from my collection of spare parts. And the chime going when I open the door is still an intermittent mystery.
Swapped gauges in my cluster. Water temp works without hitting the dash. Still need to change the t-stat. Waiting on an o-ring for the cam sensor before I can remove the t-stat housing. May have fixed the chime. Moved around some wires off the ignition switch. I'm thinking there may have been condensation between 2 solder blobs which would explain why it only happened in the morning. We'll see. Tightened e-brake cable. One cable missing locking nut. That's going to be a project replacing the cables. One cable has worn sheathing. Noticed I'm missing drain plugs under the car below the seat. Lots of corrosion. This poor girl was in standing water. Waiting on NLA parts from Germany to replace missing door panel supports. Ordered new vapor/insulation barrier. There were only 200 Club Sports manufactured. I feel compelled to save this one.
Did I mention I now see water filling up in the storage compartment in the hatch? Oh I did. I cleaned the rubber seal around the hatch to remove crude. That didn't fix it. Off to order a new seal. I hope that fixes it. Next. t-stat. Waiting on parts from a parted out car in Germany. Once I get my left door squared away I need to work on the right. That too is missing the insulating vapor barrier. Motor for the right doesn't work. Not the switch. Central locking intermittent on the right door. Total cost of parts so far. $623.00 with CCA discount. And that's just what I can see. Haven't even got to suspension yet. And there is also the tranny and diff fluid that needs to be changed. Who knows when the brake fluid was last changed. I do love driving it though. 1.9 motor. stock suspension. I don't have to worry about hitting curbs or speed bumps. But I do have the itching desire to modify but must resist. One modded car is enough.
Installed new t-stat. Once warm the temp starting go high with the bleed screw unscrewed. When I installed the t-stat I noted that the arrow was pointing to the left as facing the engine. Bentley says to note the arrow. Also says to point the arrow up. Is up, 12 o'clock in reference to the ground? M42 motor
I think up means up, as in, point the arrow straight up vertically, skyward. Sounds to me like prior t-stat was positioned incorrectly in the housing. I need to get the right kind of immersible thermometer to test t-stats before installing, in case the t-stat is defective out-of-the-box. Hopefully the M42 design isn't as prone to air pockets as M20's. I used a pressure bleeder (kit sourced from Harbor Freight, had an adapter that fits E30 expansion tank, even though the BMW-specified adapters wouldn't fit it) to pressurize, bleed, refill & repeat to get out all the air I could, and then ran it up to temp to get the thermostat to open, and then re-bled - still not absolutely sure I got all air out, but, it seems so. Sunroof drains/tubes into hatch area?
I pulled the t-stat out and reinstalling with the arrow pointing to the sky. When I got the car it ran cold and idles high. It looks like it was stuck open slightly and maybe that's why it didn't overheat. I'm leaving the bolts out overnight to dry. I'm paranoid tightening wet bolts. Cracked my diff cover last year. Figured out how to use my new torque wrench. In another thread I mentioned I snapped a bolt with the wrench. Mine doesn't click loudly. You feel the click. Changing the hatch gasket. Hopefully that fixes it. Also replacing window trim to prevent water from going in the door.
I suspect all torque specs in Bentley are for dry, clean, oil-free bolts/nuts. I generally clean 'em w/ brake parts cleaner & blow dry with compressed air if necessary. Haven't had the bad luck you've had w/ snapping small bolts, but I'm long overdue to get an in/lb torque wrench - so far have never had a problem hand-tightening the t-stat cover bolts wet or dry, but those are small and could be easily snapped, so kudos for doing it right.
I wouldn't worry except that I'm going into aluminum. I am trying to learn from my mistakes. My last mistake was costly. A new M Coupe diff cover. 89 in-lbs is not much. When I removed the bolt I was shocked how easy it was. I'm almost tempted to use blue locktite. Almost.
I repositioned the t-stat with the arrow pointing to the sky. Immediately water was flowing through the system which it did not before. Added 50/50 mix. Watched the air bubbles some out. Kept on adding anti-freeze mix until level was stable and no more air. Heat from the blower vents hot. Temp never above the center mark. First time the gauge has been in the center. Usually it's just below center. I was thinking that the idle would go down with a working t-stat. My idle is around 1300 rpm. That seems high.
Replaced leaking radiator and 2 hoses. Replaced missing door vapor barriers. Reinstalled door panels. Fixed motor on mirror. Next, disassemble intake and ICV and still try to isolate where water is coming in the hatch. Figure why SRS light is on but goes off. The wire to the seat belt was cut, but I reconnected it. Still SRS.
