Couple questions. On my 4 hour drive car handled beautifully. I noticed the water temp gauge dropping to the line below center when on the highway. I'm used to E36 water gauges not moving at all. This normal for a M42? Phase 1 Oil smell I'll check the valve cover gasket in the morning. Inspection II It's due for an oil change and the inspection lights are on. I'm going to replace the oil, filter. Plugs. Suggestions on plugs and oil weight? 89 octane OK? Phase 2 tranny, diff and brake fluid Phase 3 rubber window guide probably loose cracked trim around windshield rubber trim around windows normal stuff
So where are the photos? You seem to love BMW repair projects, so that list should keep you busy for a while.
Raining around here and tired after driving 8 hours round trip. Got to do something about the oil fumes. That could be the reason I'm tired. Or more likely, dizzy. I wouldn't say I love working on them. It's more out of necessity. I can't find a reliable shop.
I wish I had your car repair skills. It's always interesting to see the projects you're tackling. Hopefully this one is an easy fix. I look forward to seeing the photos.
Congrats on the new car Steven yah would like to see pics to. As for the temp gauge dropping I don't believe thats normal in a M42 but at least its not the other way. I would look at your thermostat first for that issue. But will these engines I would look into doing a cooling system overhaul anyway just to be on the safe side. As for spark plugs I always use Bosch or NGK 4 prong plugs also you may want to look into new plug wires as well. 89 Octane will do fine for this vehicle as a daily run around if you plan on taking it to the track then I would put some 91 or above to help keep that enemy detonation from coming with those hotter engine temps. The oil weight on my e36 cars I would change with the seasons use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in the summer. For the oil smell yes do check the valve cover gasket most common and easy fix on these engines.
Trust me. I have no skills. Everything I've done is easy with basic tools. All I do is mostly maintenance. Don't some 4 prong plugs break? For the cooling system. Hoses, t-stat and anti-freeze. There is a plastic valve that breaks but I don't know if it only on the M44. Intake boot is showing signs of cracks. Car has a K&N Hot Air Intake. I'll replace it as soon as I find someone parting out a 95 318. Valve cover gasket looks OK. Need to crawl underneath. Hatch struts need to be replaced. Noticed no CEL. I don't see anything lite when I turn the key. Only light I see is oil pressure. I need to pull the cluster and replace all the lights next. I connected my Peake at it threw 49 Vehicle speed signal not present 51 DWA/EWS input I was surprised not to see 8 Check engine lamp I cleared the codes and will retest. Also swapped out the aftermarket radio for factory. Do the screws under the tabs push against something to secure the radio? I don't see where the screws would screw into the chassis.
Since most of the lights on the cluster didn't work, I replaced every bulb. Guess what! They still don't work. And on top of that the left cable securing tab crumbled from age.
The self check in the ECU is not working and may be either a wiring issue or the module itself. I have never had the 4 prong spark plugs ever break. Gotta love working on the OBD1 cars.
Next step reinstall the cluster and look elsewhere? I was going to buy another cluster or possibly swap my cluster from my 96. Added: Got me thinking. When I first scanned codes Vehicle speed signal not present and DWA/EWS input faults. Looking at the cluster schematic there is a common bus with some lights working which is leading me to the ECU. I wonder if there is an aftermarket chip in there. Another possibility is corrosion on the ECU.
Pulled the ECU. Inspected both sides of the board. Looks clean. Did find rust under the battery compartment probably because there was no battery cover. (Battery in the engine bay.)
Put the ECU back in. Glad the car started. Can I swap a 1996 6 cylinder cluster for a 1995 4 cylinder?
Don't think so---certainly the tach will be unhappy. Odometer info is vehicle specific---when you transfer a used cluster, mileage is supposed to go to the higher of the 2 readings. Some clusters are called 'gateways' and they are the junction of electronic connections---those seem to be more vehicle specific [less likely interchange]. The ti and z3 are usually simpler electronically than other models, so your car may have the best chance of interchange.
I know the tach will be off. I don't plan on driving it at all so hopefully the mileage won't be affected. I'm trying to rule out whether I have a cluster problem. The 96 cluster needs to go back in my 96. I really think the problem is in the ECU or wiring. Car runs fine. At least it will once I replace the cracked intake boot and remove the K&N. Doesn't go into self-test. Faults aren't telling me that there is a bad CEL unless that is not part of OBD-I. Hate to buy a used ECU for $150.00 and find I still have a problem. Next step will be to install an oil pressure gauge. I'm not a fan of idiot lights, but it's better than no lights like my Mini.
Swapped clusters. Warning lights came on. So it's a cluster and not the ECU. ABS warning came on too but I think that's because the cluster is a 96 and I didn't swap the coding plug. Took apart the cluster. Don't see any visible damage to the circuit board. Now to get another cluster. I'm hoping that I can swap coding plugs and my mileage won't change. Next Intake boot, plastic window trim. Microfilter.
Replaced window cowling. Replaced microfilters. Replaced intake boot. Found another hose cracked. Found oil in the spark plug wells. I'll save that for when I take off from work next month.
Just want to make it a reliable daily driver. Forgot to mention in this thread. Replaced hatch struts. Replaced bulbs behind light and fog light switches. While under the car. Subframe bushings shot. Trailing Arm bushings cracked. I'm sure the Shock bushings are gone. That I'll need to save for a shop. After changing the oil, rough idle. I'm hoping it's a vacuum leak with the cracked hose I found. It's nice having a similar model next to me to compare things. If I could get away with it, I'd want another hatchback. I'm enjoying my time in the garage.
Replaced the cluster and bulbs and now I have working warning lights. But stupid me drove the car a few feet from my driveway into the garage without the cluster attached. Now the mileage is off by 1 and I have a tamper LED on. Anyone other than a dealer correct it?
