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HELP - Lost Comfort Access Key FOB

Discussion in 'E24 (1977-1989)' started by AKAKTM, Aug 25, 2008.

    AKAKTM guest

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    Just got a new (used) X5 4.8 and it came with only one CA key FOB. How do I obtain a replacement?

    Tony
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    mooseheadm5

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    Go to the dealer. They are the only ones that can help you.
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    az3579

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    Or pray to God that nothing happens to the one you have. They will probably have you remortgage the house for an extra... :eek:
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    Bill Boro

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    1982 633csi electronic door lock problem

    Have a locked door on driver side that key does not open. Must enter from the passenger side and climb over the center consol!

    Do not get the lock "beep" tone when the key is turned in the trunk lock or driver side door lock like it used to. The problem started after a front speaker upgrade but did not occur for about a week after, so it may or may not be related.

    Is there any way to:

    a) electrically trouble shoot the the problem ?
    b) get the driver side door open with out damaging any thing so that I can remove the door panel for further troubleshooting?
    c) get a factory chasie manual or a factory wiring diagram for 1982 633csi?

    Thanks
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    CRKrieger

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    Was anyone messing around inside the door? If so, the lock actuator position may have been disturbed. Either that or the lock link from the cylinder may have simply broken off. I would suspect the latter since the door doesn't unlock at all.
    IME, you can usually get BMW door panels off from the inside with the door closed. To make things a little easier, you might want to unbolt and remove your driver seat first. Seriously, they aren't that hard to take out and I think you'll thank me later.
    I suppose there's some obscenely expensive 'factory' thing out there somewhere, but I have an easy alternative. PM or email me.
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    Bill Boro

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    1982 633csi electronic door lock problem

    I have a locked door on driver side of my 1982 633csi that key does not open. Must enter from the passenger side and climb over the center console!

    I do not get the lock "beep" tone when the key is turned in the trunk lock or driver side door lock like it used to. The problem started after a front speaker upgrade but did not occur for about a week after, so it may or may not be related.

    Is there any way to electrically troubleshoot the the lock problem ?

    I have gotten an excellent suggestion from another club member in the E 24 forum to remove the front driver seat and then the door panel from the inside.

    Does anyone have any other recommendations or experience with this problem. Also a local salvage yard has a similar year 5 series. Does anyone know what years and models the lock system parts would be compatable with?

    Thanks
    Bill B
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    granthr

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    One time on my 88 M3 the passenger door lock actuator "failed" after I double locked the car from the drivers door. 90 degree lock position. Upon unlocking the car the passenger door would not unlock. It would not unlock with the key either. After dissembling the passenger door and removing the door lock actuator to get the door to unlock, it was discovered that the wiring harness from the car to the door had corroded and caused a break in the circuit. OF course this had to happen with the door double locked! :confused: So once the contacts were cleaned on the plug it all work perfectly again!:)

    Getting the door panel off with the door closed is possible, but a real pain in the A#$. I hope I am understanding your situation correctly. Lets us know how it turns out.

    GR
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    mooseheadm5

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    Might be easier to help if you would only post your problem in one forum. That said, you can easily remove a 6 series door panel with the door closed thanks to the design. That would be step one, rather than looking for wiring diagrams, etc. but it may be easier for you with the driver's seat out fo the way. I have never heard a factory 6 series "beep" when you lock and unlock the door. That had to have been added. Once I see electronics added to the lock system on a BMW, I like to remove them before doing any troubleshooting. Had a customer on Monday with add-on alarm system. It went bad and took down the windows and the EWS so it would not start. You also mentioned a speaker upgrade. Where were they added? What did someone mess with? THis is all important stuff to know, but like I said, get the door open first. It may be easier for you to use a left handed drill bit and see if you can remove the lock button, then screw on a longer one and pull the lock up manually. That would open it in case lock cylinder is broken or the lever arm fell off or something like that. Good luck!

    Bluestar guest

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    Did you know that there was only one FOB that came with your car when you bought it? If you bought from a dealer within a couple of days ago, I'd put them on the spot for it if it wasn't disclosed prior to the sale. I believe they are $300-500 to replace, ugh .:eek:

    Bluestar guest

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    Go to the dealer, write a check and don't look back.:eek:
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    Bill Boro

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    Thanks for the help and suggestions. This 633 csi is a hobby car for me and my 19 year old son.

    With the help of a club member, I was able to determine that the door lock module was under the passenger side dash to the left of the golve box and that the blue and white wires going into this module are the power for the door lock motors.

    This door lock module serves several purposes including unlocking the doors if there is an impact greater than 5Gs.

    The module must not be connected or disconnected with power on it. It is also position sensitive and must not be operated unless the module is pointing up with the connector pins pointing down.

    We were able to disconnect and apply 12 vdc to the blue and white wires on the module's connector. One polarity opens and the other polarity locks. The passenger side lock operated normally while the driver side could be heard attempting to operate but was jammed.

    I attempted to assist the lock motor by removing the lock button and pulling up on the rod that the button was on. No luck. It was also noted that when the inside handle on the passenger door was operated it would open the door if the door was locked. The driver side interior door handle however was jammed. This started to point to a mechanical wear or linkage problem.

    By rolling down the power windows and carefully using a couple of small wegdes to hold back the weather stripping, we were able to observe both the working passenger door and the jammed driverside lock assemblies.

    Based on the observations we were able to use a narrow bar to unlatch the jammed door and then remove the door panel and handle. By the way there is a screw at the top front of the door trim panel that is not accessable if the door is closed. It is obstructed by the dash board. This means that at best the door panel can only be partially removed from the inside with the door closed without damaging something on this model.

    One of the sheet metal lever arms on the driver side was outboardly displaced as compared to the same assembly on the working passenger side. When this lever was pulled back into possition the driverside door latch and locks operated properly!!

    This lever however, would not stay in this position. Upon further investagation we found a small torsional spring lying on the bottom of the inside of the door. It had one of two end hooks broken off of it. Though we don't know for sure, the broken spring was probably responsible for properly positioning the displaced door latch/lock lever.

    We purchased a generic 1 1/2 inch long throttle spring for $2 at an auto store and modified it to hold the lever in its proper position.

    The door now mechanically works perfectly!

    We bench tested the driver side lock motor and it is working fine but but have not reinstalled it yet. We will keep you posted.

    By the way I originally posted in the 6 Series forum but I know that there are not many of them around. I am new to the web site and did not know what cross pollenization occured between the forums.

    Thanks again.
    Bill B
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    mooseheadm5

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    Masterful fix! Kudos to you. You can take the lower door panel off with that upper black piece still installed, IIRC. Anyhow, let us know if there are any other problems.
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    Bill Boro

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    Paul,

    Do you know of a salvage yard that might have any older 6 series parts cars?

    Also do you know of a close replacement for the 6 series front bucket seats form another BMW model or any other manufactor german or otherwise? I understand that some modifications would probably be needed. My son doesn't like the sheep skins and at this point the cost of new hides and their installation is difficult to justify.

    Bill B
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    granthr

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    Hello. There are a number of advertisers in the back of Roundel who salvage bmws. I would suggest contacting some of them for the needed parts that you are looking for. I don't have a Roundel in front of me, but I can think of these, http://bmwwholesale.net/, http://www.2002ad.com/, http://www.theeurodepot.com/, http://www.bmrparts.com/engine1a.htm. I know there are others, so check your Roundel. I have used a number of them and I have had good expereinces with them.

    I believe you can get an E30 sport seat in your E24, but you will need to create a bracket so that it bolts in. I have seen these for sale on ebay. So it is not a direct fit. Maybe an E28 seat would fit, but don't take my word on it.

    Glad to hear you got your door working again. Good luck.

    Grant
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    Bill Boro

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    Grant,

    Great Resources!
    Just joined the BMW club hope to get a copy of Roundel soon.

    Thanks

    Bill

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