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Extracting #4 Spark Plug

Discussion in 'E90/E92/E93 M3 (2008-2013)' started by 106598, Sep 17, 2015.

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    106598

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    Hi!
    Changing spark plugs on the M3 & have a question for the Subject Matter Experts: What is the proper way to extract spark plug # 4(closet to the windscreen on the passenger side(RH)? There is little or no clearance to put a socket in to remove that particular spark plug. Suggestions?
    Thank You,
    John M. Coates, Jr.
    2008 E92 BMW M3
    BMWCCA Member #106598
    San Diego California
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    charlson89

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    Have you removed the microfilters and the microfilter housing/ strut brace? This will make the job much easier.
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    106598

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    Hello Charlson89,
    No, I haven't removed those items yet. I want to also put in a new ignition coil on #4 while changing the spark plug since it is tough to access. Once new coil is obtained, I will let you know how things go.......
    Many Thanks!
    John M. Coates, Jr.
    BMWCCA #106598
    2008 E92 M3 Coupe'
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    charlson89

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    Please let me know how it goes. The coils are expensive I will let you know.
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    106598

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    Hi All!
    An update to my Sept 17 post about removing the spark plug/ignition coil on cylinder #4 on my 2008 E92 M3 coupe. After taking charlson89's advice to remove the micro filter panel and a portion of the upper strut tower brace I was able to successfully get the space needed to remove both the spark plug/ignition coil and replace them with brand new components. Have a telescoping magnet($8 at local auto parts store) handy while removing the fasteners on the upper strut tower brace. Remove only the portion on the passenger side. Also, make sure if you knock off any of the protective cover(s) for the 12vdc power lug or cable junction, make real sure you have them firmly pushed back in place by hand before lowering your extensions down past them to avoid a direct short circuit. If you ground the socket extension while touching the bare lug of junction you will create a direct short circuit and can either/or blow a fuse and /or leave a burnt spot in the paint works on the inner fender area or even start a fire. If you have insulated socket extensions, great. If not to be safe you could wrap your socket extensions yourself with some electrical tape. That way should you touch and ground while fishing your extensions down toward the spark plug opening it will not spark. Make sure to spray either WD-40 or similar spray lube down the spark plug hole once the ignition coil has been removed and before you lower your 5/8" spark plug socket down the hole. This will make the extraction of the new plug much easier in very tight quarters. Also, dab some anti seize on the threads of the new spark plug prior to installation and some dielectric grease on the opposite end where the ignition coil will seat. This will make future removal much easier. Also, smear dielectric grease generously in the inner circular "lip" of the ignition coil where it will seat on the raised area of the valve cover. This is the area on the coil that has the BMW roundel on it(the inner surface on the back side). All went well and thanks again to charlson89!
    John
    charlson89 and Ken.S.330 like this.
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    steven s

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    I'm not sure I'd use WD-40.
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    106598

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    Hello Again!
    Well, after I took the M3 to the grocery store on Sat morning, I jump back in and start up the engine and I get an "ABS"/brake system warning on the dash above the speedometer. The cruise control was working on the way to the store but wouldn't on the way back. Any ideas? ABS/speed sensor failure at one of the wheels?
    Thank You!
    John
    BMWCCA Member #106598
    2008(12/2007 manuf. date) E92 M3 coupe'
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    steven s

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    Be nice if you could get the fault scanned but that's something your typical Advance Auto can't do.

    To fix my Mini I bought 1 sensor. Swapped the left. When that didn't fix it, swapped the right.
    It's a crap shoot. Could also be a rear sensor.
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    106598

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    Hi Steven S:
    Well, I guess AA could if the have on hand the proper OBD II scanner that has the software for reading ABS codes on late model BMW's. I have an OBD II reader that does read ABS codes but not BMW. So, with almost 111,000 miles on the odometer I think I will do the job correctly and change out all (4) ABS/Speed sensors. (2) front & (2) rear. I am quite capable of doing the work myself. Not sure if lights on the dash will go out once all (4) sensors start sending pulse signals back to the ABS control module but I can then at that point take it to either a BMW dealership near by me or an independent with the correct BMW ABS code reader/reset software.
    More to follow!
    Thank You,
    John M. Coates, Jr.
    BMWCCA Member #106598
    San Diego, CA 92128
    (985) 285-0973 Cell
    fahrenm3@aol.com
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    steven s

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    I don't think the lights will go out right away. Eventually they will.
    Assuming it is a sensor.

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