I've read posts on other forums about hardwiring radar detectors in the E60. I had no issues in the E39 540i, but it's not so cut and dry in the E60. The main option taps into the sunroof circuit for a switched 12v power supply - but I am among the majority of users who experienced the "sunroof circuit fault" with this approach. Luckily, reversal of everything I did returned everything to normal. The other option discussed includes running a long power cord through the head liner, down the pilar and tie into the power outlet in the passenger footwell. I don't feel like doing that much work OR tying up the outlet. What I have a hard believing is that among all the components in the overhead area (auto dimming mirror, rain sensor, headlight assist, lighting, garage door opener) that there isn't another reliable, non-error inducing, 12v switched power source up there. I've searched for wiring diagrams but the few that I've found are too cryptic to be of any use. I could take a volt meter and pin by pin the cables, but the leads on the probes are too large to fit into the plugs - which means I'd have to rig something to do it right. I was hoping someone may know something that I haven't found. Thanks for your help in advance. Myron
Try these articles for info: http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=708& http://forums.e60.net/index.php?act=ST&f=14&t=8455
Thanks, but the best I found there was how to wire it to the rear fuse box - which would require even more work than running down the front to the footwell. I did learn that the brown wire is always ground.
How to Hardwire an E60/61 Pre or Post LCI mhawruluk Yes I know it is May 19th, but I just came across this thread. I have hardwired TWO E61s - one a 2006, the second an LCI 2010. I had no trouble in both cases, although in the second case I had to sleep on it to find the Green/Yellow wire (I am 'Hopco') If you follow the thread below you will almost be assured of a good connection. Read all the longer comments. For a pre-LCI start with Don Juan (Post #12), go on to Stream (Post #68) to find out how to hide the wires to a remote display. For an LCI Paulen4 was my guide (Post #222). Of course you might want to view my posts(#239 & 240) with a photo. Here is the link: http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=708
I just hardwired my 9500ix with the direct wire smart cord from Escort on my E60. I wasn't real excited about taping into a wire in the overhead, especially given some of the mixed experiences. So I ran the detector wire up along the top, down the driver's side A-pillar, under the steering column and over to where the console joins the dash section. For the power, I ran that under the backside over to the passenger side and used the wire tap into the footwell accessory socket. First issue was that the cord gets used up fairly quickly.... wish there was a little more length to the detector. I didn't get the tap seated very well and ended up going back in there and tightened it up. The most challenging part isn't routing along the headliner and down the pillar, but gaining access to the passenger footwell area. But after doing that a couple times, got that down pretty quick and easy. The nice thing about that is that tapping into an accessory outlet means that it is a switched power source, so I don't have to turn the detector on and off manually. Some day I might rewire it to bring the smart controller into the ashtray section for a cleaner, more concealed installation.
I found it I installed my V1 - (in about the 6th car its been in - that thing lives FOREVER) in my 2010 535 a few days ago. I had an '07 and had no problem finding the green/white or green/yellow (can't remember) so I tapped into the green/yellow wire going to the sunroof switch, which tested OK for switched power. But (as reported elsewhere) that causes a fault with the sunroof's jam detection. BUT - there is another green/yellow going down into the mirror - and that one works just fine. They are not the same wire. A little tricky to get enough room for the splice. Unfortunately I no longer have the 3-way from the V1's kit. I ended up cutting it and doing a solder splice with shrink-wrap insulation. That's that - should be a 15 minute job. Mine took two hours. It wasn't just having to find the right wire. I just didn't have a good day. Scraped my finger on something up there and kept discovering blood on the headliner. Stop, clean, continue, more blood. Damn! Dropped the little fuse in the V1's power supply lead down between the driver's seat and the tunnel - gone forever. Didn't stop me from looking for a while. And many other calamities. It wasn't a great day. But the job is done and my V1 lives to ride in yet another of a long chain of vehicles.
I had my Redline hardwired with the tap going directly to the fuse box. That way it is switched on and off with the car and I don't forget to turn it on or off. This was the easiest job I have ever done. 1/2 hour labor at the dealer for $50.00 and two free cups of coffee. I didn't trust myself removing the A pillar panel which they have done hundreds of times. There are at least three spare switched fuse locations and so I will be splicing into the fuse box when I add an outlet for the Garmin. I keep forgetting to unplug it from the cigarette lighter and have left it on overnight
I can understand that. But this is about a 535, where there's a fixed roof - and we need switched power up in the headliner in order to cleanly install a radar detector up by the rear view mirror. Running a line all the way to the fuse panel from there is not for the faint of heart. You can easily damage interior trim or clips if you don't already know how it comes apart. The wire I'm talking about IS switched with the ignition.
