Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by jeremyxman, Mar 20, 2008.
can any one walk me through the install proses of a front wheel barring for my e30 318i?
This is a fairly straightforward procedure and I will try to walk you through it.
1) Loosen lug nuts on appropriate front wheel(s) but do not remove
2) Jack up front of car and secure on jack stands
3) Remove front wheel(s)
4a) If working on the drivers side unhook the brake wear sensor wire from the sensor
4b) Remove brake caliper from the strut housing and use a bungee cord/twine/wire/etc. to hang the caliper from the strut (I usually tie them to the lower coils on the spring)
5) Remove brake rotor from hub (pray that the small set-screw is not over-torqued or frozen)
6) Remove the ABS sensor from the back of the strut housing
7) Remove the dust cap at the center of the wheel hub
8) Remove the lock ring from around the large nut at the center of the hub
9) Remove the large nut (This is a 36mm nut torqued to 210 ft-lbs so a breaker bar or impact wrench will be required)
10) Slide bearing assembly off of the spindle (pray that the inner race comes out with the entire assembly)
11) Clean the spindle and threads with brake cleaner
12) Installation is reverse of removal
Notes on removal, the numbers preceding reference the step above:
8) You will need to use a chisel or screwdriver to bend out the tab on the lock ring to remove it from around the large nut. Make note of how this is installed before removal so installation is more clear.
9) The nut holding the bearing to the spindle is 36mm so be prepared to purchase a new socket, preferably a six point.
10) If you are lucky a puller is not required to remove the bearing from the spindle and the whole assembly will slide off. However, the inner race can separate from the assembly and it will be stuck tightly on the spindle. A two or three jaw puller will be needed to remove the inner race, taking care not to scratch the spindle in the process. The dust shield behind the bearing will need to be pushed back or cut away if the inner race needs pulled so I always purchase a new one just in case. If your puller jaws are too large to get behind the back side of the inner race you can use a dremel to cut notches around its perimeter. These notches will allow the puller jaws a good surface to grab. Take extreme care not to cut into the spindle!
11) If the dust shield is damaged or was removed this is the time to replace it so it is not forgotten during reassembly. (I have done this twice...DOH)
Notes on installation, the numbers preceding reference the step above:
12) Make sure the dust shield is properly installed. Slide the new hub assembly squarely on to the spindle. As you push on the hub only place pressure on the inner bearing race (the area where the large nut rests when assembled). The goal is to expose enough threads to install the nut and tighten, drawing the hub into final position.
If you can not get the bearing far enough onto the spindle to install the nut then it may be necessary to use a large socket (or drift, or pipe) and a hammer to get it into position by applying force to the inner race. You MUST only place pressure on the inner race or the bearing can be destroyed. Hammer the hub just far enough so the nut can be installed.
Once the hub is in final position torque the nut to 210 ft-lbs.
Now everything is really the reverse of removal.
The brake caliper bolt torque is 81 ft-lbs
Hope this helps!
got it done.
got it done and t was a lot easier than i thought it would be!!! thanks!
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