Best 1998 M3 mod for autocross

Hi all,

Aside from driving training, which I plan on attending several schools in the near and distant future, what are the best bang for the buck mods for my M3 for use in non-competitive bmwcca autocross? I feel that the car pushes quite a lot on tight corners. I will use this car on the track at driving schools and put snow tires on it for somewhat daily driving in the winter (not too harsh in west tennessee).

Current car:

1998 M3 Coupe 106k miles original owner
Dinan springs and shocks/struts front and rear
Aftermarket rear shock mounts
Zimmerman aluminum radiator
Front //M Motorsport rotors with Ferodo pads (can't remember which)
Bridgestone RE 010 on stock staggered wheels (1/2 worn).
UUC adjustable sways
undercarriage X-brace from M3 convertible
UUC short shift kit

Any tips on using the equipment I have now for better autocross runs? Soften swaysbars in front or rear? Tire pressure changes between front and rear (currently running 40 psi during events)

Things I was thinking about modifying in the future in no particular order, except the supercharger which will be last;-)

1) Stainless steel braided brake lines
2) Better pads
3) Big brake kit front or both with slotted rotors (ie StopTech)
4) Non-staggered lighter wheels (16-17 lb range for 17's)
5) Regearing the diff for more 1st, 2nd gear work
6) Front strut tower brace
7) Chip, cold air box, exhaust, cams (worth the $?)
8) Supercharger (VF, Dinan, AA, etc $$$$)
9) Racing seats with more secure belts
10) CDV delete
11) light weight body panels ($$$$)
12) light flywheel (UUC)
13) Better headlights (any rec on HID vs. Euro elipsoid halogen)

For competitive autocross and track events if I participate in the future, I will probably have a purpose made car that complies with the regs. This car is just for fun.


Sunny

Sounds like you have a good plan. The one thing I'd add to your list is an "X-Brace". The brace would stiffen up the front and may assist in quicker turn in response. The brace was made for the convertible to strengthen chassis stiffness.

One more relatively inexpensive upgrade would be the S50 manifold. It'll allow your car to pull all the way to redline. I've been told to maximize this upgrade, it's best to upgrade to larger throttlebody as well as change out the injectors for larger ones.

Make sure to check the RTAB bushing and the connecting areas. The area has been known to rust which leads to failure which can be extremely dangerous. Several manufacturers make reinforcement kits. At 106k miles, you may be due for the RTAB to be replaced.