Anyone have trouble with the door lock sticking? Intermittently, my driver's door lock does not lift with the alarm deactivation. Or from within the car, pulling the inside handle meets some resistance. I was hoping there would be a way to lubricate whatever is binding without having to remove the door panel. Those things never go back together with the same fit and finish as done at the factory. Plus, I've heard of folks getting water in the footwell if the vapor barrier is not put on right. Any thoughts? Regards, Paul
I have an 03 M3 with same problem. Drivers door does not unlock(ever) with the remote or the center console switch. I noticed that it sticks as you describe above. I tried re-synching remote and still I have this problem. Actually now my remotes dont work at all. I am going to replace the door lock actuator shortly but I suspect there are bigger problems ie...control module. The "drivers door wont unlock with the remote" problem is VERY common. Unfortunately there is not a sure fire fix from what I can find. This problem andthe "leaking caustic liquid rear view mirror" seem to be rampant on the E46. Good luck. Graham
Thanks for the info. Let me clarify. I have no trouble with the remote unlocking the other doors. In fact I can hear the actuator in the drivers door. It is actually working well recently. Furthermore, my car was essentially in storage for the past 2+ years. I think the lack of use was partly to blame.
Hey.. did you ever figure out the problem with your lock? I have an 01 330ci and my driverside door lock is doing the same thing...lol, i also hear the acuator when I unlock the door from my remote but the door lock doesnt move forcing me to manully unlock my door.
I am not sure if you are replying to me or the original poster...I suspect me, as the original poster claimed his problem went away. As an FYI: I changed my drivers door lock actuator this weekend. It partially fixed my problem in that my door lock button on the center console now locks and unlocks both doors. The doors also lock when my speed increases above 10 mph. Unfortunately my remoted still do not work after numerous attempts to re-synch them.They do not lock or unlock doors/trunk. I have an appointment tomorrow with the dealer. The door lock actuator was fairly easy. There is a good DIY available here http://www.e46toronto.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=8893 There are a few things that this DIY misses. Torx wrench bit is a T30. Allen wrench required to remove the door lock cylinder to re-install actuator. Will post a re
The problem has re-appeared this week. I suspect it is a lubrication issue as the inside door handle is hard to pull when I try to use it to force the lock up. Looks like I'll have to pull the door panel at some point. As far as your FOB, perhaps the internal battery won't hold a charge any longer. I believe the key uses magnetic induction to charge the battery while it is in the ignition.
Turns out that the remote (key fob) problem was an unrelated issue. 2 months ago I had the leaking rear view mirror defect. I found a company that remanufactures them for $75. Ordered one and installed it. Apparently the receiver for the remote lock/unlock (which resides in the rear view mirror) defective. The mirror had a one year warranty and I replaced it and now all is fine. Here is the problem I had initially with my door locks: With keyfob button I could not unlock drivers door. Pax door unlocked fine with keyfob button. With keyfob button I could lock both doors. With door lock switch on center console I could not unlock drivers door. Pax door unlocked fine with switch. With door lock switch on center console I could lock both doors. With door handle lock(drivers side) I could lock and unlock both doors. 5 mph door lock feature worked fine(locked both doors). I replaced the door lock actuator myself for 125 dollars and all is fine now. I heard that if your keyfob button exhibits the same issue as the switch on the center console it is an actuator. Indeed this was true for me. Hope this helps someone. Cheers.
