Well, I WAS going to install the strip of LED lights in my trunk, but now it's lost somewhere in the garage...
Changed oil,( Lubro Moly 5-30). Automatic transmission fluid, (zf- lifeguard 6 ). Both differentials, ( Amsoil 75-90 full synthetic). Also flushed brake fluid, ( napa dot 4). Installed new gasket at oil cooler to stop oil leak. Discovered oil leak coming from behind bell housing? Rear main ? Not looking forward to that repair.
I recently replaced the left front underbody panel on the M Roadster. It's plastic, there was a chunk of it missing, and that was noticed during the PPI that was done before purchasing the car last July. Didn't seem like a deal breaker. The temperature sensor is mounted in the middle of this in a little well, pointing downwards, and it seemed like it might be a good idea to replace it before more of it mysteriously disappeared, possibly taking the sensor with it, which is probably made from unobtanium. This plastic panel cost $35 from an online source, relatively inexpensive (in BMW terms), and I bought it shortly after I bought the car. However, I learned from an online forum that it was necessary to remove the front bumper to replace this piece. Well I finally decided to dedicate the time to do this, so I took off the front bumper (the headlight washers made this way more of a pain in the ass than it should have been) and found that it's held in place by a ridiculous number of expanding rivets, a bolt, and a bunch of screws, two of which were unnecessarily installed from the radiator side, which is why the bumper had to be removed. Once the bumper was off it installed easily. Imagine my disappointment to find that now the right one was now damaged, as well as the center underbody panel. These were clearly my fault, and the "fangs" on the bottom of the front bumper now attest to this. The hood on this Beast is much longer and higher than the one on my previous S2000 and it's virtually impossible to determine where those damn parking lot curbs are. Imagine my complete and total shock to discover that while the left panel is $35, the right panel is $95! It's practically the mirror opposite of the left one and doesn't even have the little well in it for the temperature sensor but costs almost three times as much! The center panel is about $115 and when reinstalling the bumper I accidentally broke the left bumper retaining clip which is another $30. When reinstalling the bumper I also discovered that the left front wheel housing (fender well) is starting to come apart at the fender edge, right where a plastic push rivet holds together the bumper, fender liner, and left fender, and that's another $114. So now I'm looking at around $350 for plastic parts that nobody can see, but are all attached to each other and are probably necessary to make sure that my front bumper and/or fenders aren't going to come off. I'll probably ending up breaking the right side fender clip when I get around to ordering and installing all of this stuff.
New torsion struts and ball joints today. I am always amazed at how easy BMW's are to repair and maintain. Tomorrow I'm tearing down the R1150R to lube the spline shaft, and see what else needs attention at 60,000mi.
Yes, me too, there was plenty of flogging going on...but I had to leave the flogging event early - apparently the One Series is due for some new rear pads. Newbie mistake...but to my credit (or discredit) they've look low for a year and a half now.
Gave the M Sport steering wheel a hug. My car was in the shop all week for a warranty repair (for some reason, it took 4 days to get a power steering pump). The free rental was a Ford Focus. I guess I could have received something worse but Ford tried to make the steering wheel like the 3 spoke M wheel.....just not the same.
Mr. Bee and I replaced the rear rotors and pads on the One Series. Talk about a pain in the butt, those rotors were snuggled up to the hub like me to Mr. Bee on a cold night. We used sledge hammers, prybars, you name it but those suckers were on there tight. After perusing the interwebs we found an article of somebody using a bolt and nut to back the rotor off of the hub. After snapping two big bolts in half, several bloody knuckles and a moment or two of uncomfortable silence, those babies popped out. The project that should have taken two hours left us up at midnight, putting the last wheel on and then eating cake. What better way to celebrate new rotors, right?
Rear rotors can be tough. I generally spray a liberal amount of PB Blaster around the hub and walk away for 15 minutes. Then I take a dead blow hammer and gradually pound harder around the back of the rotor. Just watch your toes! Always be sure to disengage the brake. You should use anti-sieze compound so you don't run into the same problem next time.
Whew, hopefully I'll be riding in a new Two Series before I have to do THAT particular job again. As an ounce of prevention tactic, Mr. Bee and I DID put anti-sieze compound on, with that same thought in mind. We used the PB Blaster, but had some concerns as to if it would harm the E-Brake stuff on the inside of the hub. We can only pound so hard, neither Mr. Bee nor I have big huge muscles to tear stuff up with. Although, we do lift weights, perhaps we should join a gym to become better mechanics. (and also, I've found that that problem plumbers have whilst working isn't just for plumbers :-o )
Coveralls...............For the sake of God.......................Coveralls. http://www.dickies.com/sale/clearance/mens-clothing/Deluxe-Coverall--Cotton-4870.jsp
