That is great news. I bet you can't wait to get your bimmer back. They should owe you an apology for this long delay, but hey I bet you don't care now since it will be covered. Let us know what parts they will replace as I am curious..........
I certainly will. I am just happy it is being fixed, and hey - they gave me a 2008 335i to drive in the meantime, so I couldn't exactly say I am suffering if it takes another week or two
put one of these in! http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/shop.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=6134&Product_Code=M54ALUTHERM
Is this something I should ask them to install? Also, any advice on correctly breaking in a new/reengineered engine?
They say for the first 1200 miles, you should drive at moderate low engine speeds (ie no high RPM's!)After the 1200 mile break in period, change the oil with synthetic.
Try to stay maybe under 4,000 RPM's. I am not sure the exact figure, but I would say 4,000 is the limit. In other words, don't approach the redline/go in it, etc... Remember, you want the break-in period to be the benchmark of a 300,000 mile engine
the sticker on the windshield of my M says less than 5500 RPM during break-in, with an 8000 redline. Regarding cars with a lower redline, no more than 4k during break-in makes sense... but your owners manual has the break-in procedure for your particular vehicle...
Just got my car back this afternoon. It needed a new battery, plus some service charges and I had them replace a cup holder. The total with $50 deductible and new battery was $400. I am starting the break in period with the engine and hoping there are no other issues - so far so good, but it is painful having to stay below 4k RPMs Here is the service log, as best I can transpose it: ---------------------------------------------- J #2 ---------------------------------------------- C/S WHILE DRIVING DOWN 101, CUSTOMER HEARD AND FELT A BANGING NOISE FROM UNDER THE HOOD. LIGHTS STARTED COMING ON THE DASH AND THE VEHICLE STARTED LOSING POWER AND STEAM STARTED COMING FROM UNDER HOOD, PULLED OFF HIGHWAY CPO WARRANTY. FAN CLUTCH LOCKED UP CAUSING COOLING FAN TO LOOSE ALL BLADES THROUGH THE COOLING HOSES AND RADIATOR CAUSING OVER HEAT. VERIFIED CONCERN, PERFORMED DIS TEST. FAULT CODE 122 010 STORED IN THE DME. ENGINE OVER HEAT TO 295 DEGREES. REMOVED OIL FILLER CAP AND FOUND MIXTURE (OIL/COOLANT) UNDER CAP. I REMOVED VALVE COVER AND RELEASED ALL HEAD BOLTS. I THEN PERFORMED RE TORQUE OF HEAD BOLTS. HEAD BOLTS STRIPED DURING RE TORQUE INDICATING PULLED THREADS PER SIB 11 06 06. PERFORMED ENGINE REPLACEMENT WITH NEW LONG BLOCK. ALSO REPLACED THE RADIATOR, UPPER AND LOWER COOLANT HOSES, COOLANT EXP. THANK COOLANT TRANSFER TUBES UNDER MANIFOLD, FAN, FAN CLUTCH AND FAN SHROUD. ENGINE NOW OPERATES CORRECTLY, NO OTHER FAULTS QTY | DESCRIPTION 1 | RMFD SHORT ENGINE 2 | GASKET W/HEAT PROT. 1 | SET OF PROFILE GASK 1 | RADIATOR 1 | EXPANSION TANK 1 | FAN 11 BLADE 1 | FAN COUPLING 1 | ANTIFREEZE 2 | FLAT GASKET 1 | TEMPERATURE SENSOR ---------------------------------------------- J #3 ---------------------------------------------- PROVIDE CLIENT WITH LOANER VEHICLE ---------------------------------------------- J #4 ---------------------------------------------- PERFORM 29 POINT FACTORY COURTESY INSPECTION COMPLETED PER ATTACHED INSPECTION FORM ---------------------------------------------- J #5 ---------------------------------------------- COOLANT LEAK COMING FROM COOLANT TRANSFER TUBES (PW FROM RO###### 53,136 04/09/2008) NEW COOLANT WATER PIPE LEAKING AND WILL NOT SEAL. VERIFIED CONCERN. PRESSURE TESTED COOLING SYSTEM TO 3 BAR AND FOUND COOLANT TRANSFER TUBE LEAKING. REMOVED AIR INTAKE BOX AND INTAKE MANIFOLD TO REPLACE COOLANT WATER PIPE. BLED COOLING SYSTEM, NO OTHER LEAKS PRESENT. QTY | DESCRIPTION 1 | WATER PIPE ---------------------------------------------- J #6 ---------------------------------------------- REPLACE DEAD BATTERY BATTERY FAILED AND WILL NOT HOLD A CHARGE VERIFIED CONCERN, REPLACED FAILED BATTERY PER EST. QTY | DESCRIPTION 1 | BATTERY FROM EXIDE 1 | CUP HOLDER (I requested this separately) ---------------------------------------------- J #7 ---------------------------------------------- LINE ADDED FOR PARTS THAT ARE NOT COVERED UNDER CPO WARRANTY CPO DOES NOT COVER PARTS DAMAGED BY FAN CLUTCH FAILURE PARTS TO BE APPROVED AND PAID FOR BY AMM [Name Omitted] QTY | DESCRIPTION 1 | WATER HOSE 1 | WATER HOSE 1 | HEATER INLET PIPE 1 | WATER PIPE 1 | FAN SHROUD
That is a long list my friend. However, I wish they should have replaced the water pump and the thermostat. When does your CPO expire? I know its hard, but stay just under 4K RPM's until you hit 1,200 miles and change the oil. The BMW replacement battery used to last only up to two years. I heard that they changed their supplier and they should last much longer, so you should be fine. I bet, however, you were a bit sad returning the 335i..............
The service rep says he wants me to bring the car back to him twice before next Feb (end of CPO) to make sure that the car is in top form post-CPO. Any idea on a ballpark for water pump and thermastat? I might just go to an independant garage and have them do it along with the cooling mod - but probably after the CPO lapses I need to decide if I am going to keep this car past next Feb or not - still not sure, but that 335Ci is a nice ride and very tempting. My 330i feels wimpy now though I can't really gun it for the next month or so... Is there anyway of verifying that they tuned the new engine right? Also, is it possible have the performance package added this model? (330i Feb 2003) - I know it wasn't available when this car was orginally sold... Thanks for all of the help!
Water pump and thermostat would be much cheaper if purchased through an aftermarket vendor (bavauto.com, bimmerparts.com, etc...). Maybe add bilstein sport shocks with aftermarket springs and Dinan mods will make you get up to 240-250 hp.....The new engine should be fine. If BMW messed it up, then we are all doomed. If you want to get the 335, then go ahead and get her! However, are you ready to deal with no dipstick?
my advice is good regardless of whatever the dealer did for you. I bought an E38 while still under warrantee. I noticed it was consuming coolant. no leaks, just neede a little every week. took it to Irvine BMW and they found about $3k worth of problems all under warrantee. good, right? No. It still "consumed" coolant. I kept on top of it and at the next service, I mentioned it again. they found another $3k worth of cooling system problems but NO WARRANTEE and guess what, it still consumed coolant! I kept an eye on it and it never overheated or had any other problems. the next time I took it in for serivce they said they would be glad to diagnose and fix it but there would be no warrantee. long story short, my wife was driving back from northern California to southern Cal and it overheated and toasted the motor with no warning. no warrantee help and the motor was $15k
What did they determine was the root cause of failure when the engine went? Also was the car still CPO when it actually fried? how many miles/year?
$3K worth of coolant parts is a hefty price. Sorry that the engine went because the mechanic at the dealership lacked some knowledge. To my VERY LIMITED knowledge on auto mechanics, your description of "consuming coolant with no leaks" could have been the beginning signs of a cracked head and/or blown head gasket. This is what happened to my E34 M30. I know the M62 and the M30 are like comparing apples and oranges, but just a thought. You got the engine for the stealer? Out in Cali, there is Bavarian Engine Exchange that you could have gotten it for less than 1/2 the price...
the $15k was including labor and the rebuilt or used engines were about 2/3 the cost of the new. with a "7" you don't always want to go the cheapest route. I used an independant shop that probably cost as much as any dealer.
