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540i 6 spd control arm replacement

Discussion in 'E39 (1997-2003)' started by crobinson773, Jan 25, 2010.

    crobinson773 guest

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    Local BMW mechanic replaced my right control arm (thanks BMW - can't buy the bushings only?) over a year ago because of off center vagueness/wandering before suspension loading and clunking noise from that side on slow speed bumps. Left was fine. Now left needs replacement - what is the degree of difficulty if DIY? With the wealth of info from the internet and car clubs I have refrained from buying the Bentley manual - anyone have an outline of the process as I would like to do it myself.

    kearnsclan guest

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    replacing front control arm

    Ditto for me !!!

    Has anyone offered you help? I have 540i 6 speed and would like to change the front control arms also.

    Let me know what you have found out. It would be a great help.

    thanks !!

    Johan guest

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    I have a 95 540 although it didn't start life with a 6 speed it does have one now. I have changed the upper and lower control arms on this car. It isn't that difficult but in my opinion you will want to have air tools. I followed a DIY from one of the bimmer forums. I was able to replace both upper and lower control arms, center link and all the boll joints in about 4 to 5 hours of work. As I understand you can also just up grade with the 750 bushings alone. I do know you can get bushings alone but in my case it was just faster and easier for me to replace the parts complete.
    Johan

    kearnsclan guest

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    Front control arm replacement

    Many thanks to Johan !!!!

    Is it recommended to 'load' the car when tightening the bushing side of the 'lower' control arm?

    It is the same loading procedure as when installing the 'thrust arm/ rod' or 'upper' bushing ?

    thanks again.

    Johan guest

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    I'm dont remember what it said in the book but I did tighten them both under load. I'm sure the way I did it wasnt the way others may do it but I do not have ramps to set the front wheels on. I do can not get under the car when it is sitting on all four wheels (lowering springs). I measured the distance from the rim to the wheel arch with the wheels on it. After replacing the parts I put the wheel back on and with a sand bag and 2x6 on my jack I lifted the wheel until it was at the same position when on the ground then I used my did my final torquing. It worked well for me its been almost 2 years since I did the work and all is going strong. Again this is just my 2 cents. It really isnt that bad of a job with air tools at least.
    Johan

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