Hi guys, I'm looking to repaint my bumper covers and I would like to use some decent paint to match my original OEM color. I am looking to buy both the paint and the clear coat..does anyone know of a GOOD aftermarket place where I can get BMW-Schwartz paint? I don't want to buy the cheapo stuff at autozone... Thanks!
Ask several bodyshops if there are shops which supply their paint. If your BMW paint color tag has a number on it, I _think_ PART of that number will coincide with the paint supplier's numbered index of paint colors. The supplier should have a recommendation as to which brand/type you might want. The advantage to that is you should be able to get the small quantity you need. I think BMW paint kits are enough for a whole car without smaller quantities available, and cost several hundred dollars.
There are several on-line auto touch-up paint companies that will supply BMW OEM paint codes in aerosol cans. I used expresspaint.com to get some Hellrot paint for my old 318ti to touch-up the side skirts and it was an exact match. (no paint gun required)
You can search BASF refinishing look for Glasruit link to get info. Glasruit is the Brand BMW uses OEM
If you are painting bumpers, then you may need a Flex agent sprayed either before the paint or with the paint, so that the paint will be more flexible and not crack off when "flexed", as in somone pushing their car up against it, etc. You know, those people who hit you and drive off and dont even leave a note saying Im sorry, I was drunk, etc..., You may ask about the flex agent when you call around or go on line for yur paint .. DanF
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the responses...now I have paint flaking off in some areas...how would you suggest that I prep the bumper trim? Most of the bumper is in good condition with paint on it, but I'm not sure what to use to strip off the existing paint. I want to prep it well before I put the new paint on...any suggestions? Thanks!
There are many ways to do this - one would be to Get some 3m wet or dry sand paper, anywhere from 360 grit - 400 grit, depends on how hard it is to sand this down, get a sponge and a bucket of water, tapeoff any areas of the surrounding body you dont want to hit with the sandpaper, and use the sponge to wet a spot and keep water running on it as you sand it with the paper in your hand. I used to take full sheet, fold it in half so that I had to wide (not long) pieces, tear it, then take the 2 pieces and fold them into 3rds. Use the entire 3fold to sand and as it wears out, unfold another side, etc. As long as you use water from the bucket or a hose, etc., the sanding will be faster and the paper will last longer. On curved areas, use the flat of your hand, and when you sand an area do an X pattern if possble, that way you get everything sanded.At the automotive paint store, you can buy a little hard rubber block to fold the paper on and it will help sand it more evenly.. Once you get all the loose paint off, be sure its nice and smooth, you can get a coat of primer with flex agent on there, spray a guide coat on that, sand it with 400 grit or higher, to get a really smooth finish, tape the car all off and paint it. Good luck, let us know how its going ! DanF
I did the painting/sanding and clear coating yesterday..took me the whole day because i had to include dry times...my question to you guys is do I do anything to the clear coat? Someone mentioned that you should buff the clear coat with rubbing compound? I'm scarred to mess it up... Do I just leave it? Thanks! -Rob
Wow, Rob you are doing great ! Sounds like you covered everything - how does it look to you ? If it looks better and you are happy, no reason to rub the clear coat. If the surface is smooth and shiny and you are satisfied, leave it be, and after awhile, put some wax, sealer, etc., on it. Let it dry for awhile first, probably a week or so, leave it in the sun if you actually have any where you live. Congratulations on finishing this project! Bet the Bimmer looks great ! DanF
The surface is smooth and shinny..however I think that there is one spot where there are light scratches..think the parents moved something in the garage and a blanket rubbed up against it...its VERY SLIGHT..I dunno if I will mess it up if I use rubbing compound.. I wouldn't mind using rubbing compound..but my question is will I mess it up if I use it? Thanks, Rob
Hey Rob - If you want to get it perfect as possible, you can use a rubbing compound - after - everything completely dries. As long as you can smell the paint, it is not dry. It dries from the deepest coat and goes outward through all the other coats, which are also drying, to the atmosphere. When you use a rubbing compound, there is always a chance you can get a product that is too agressive, and this will do 2 things - leave scratches in the finish, and/or remove the finish and leave a real mess there. You have to be very careful. The best way to approach is to use the most least aggrssive compound lightly and see what it does. If you have access to Zaino, they make a product, - Zaino ZPC-Fusion, which is a milder scratch, swirl remover, that doesnt have any oils, etc, in it, and leaves a nice clear, clean finish that is now ready for polishing, waxing, etc.. If you decide to go on to this stage, what are you thinking of using for a compound? DanF
I have 3M rubbing compound sitting on my shelf..I'm scarred of using it...I'll read the bottle..the scratches are sooo light..I might just leave them..I dunno hahaha
Just found Meguaria's Scratch-X that says it is safe for clear coats...I am gonna wait longer..but I know its def dry..I'll wait just to make sure..
What is the part number of the 3m product ? They make alot of different rubbing compounds now, some for over the counter and some professional for auto body painters, detailers, etc.. What you have to remember is that any of these products will remove roughness on paint by removing that rough paint. So do you think you have enough paint at that spot or the entire bumper, to allow you to remove some some? And next, if you introduce some scratches into the finish by using the product, can you get another product less agressive to take out those scratches, by again removing a little paint? If you put enough on there, then go ahead and give it a try. Now a little ex-painter's advice, will this extra work match the rest of the car's finish in the way it all looks together? When we did say a fender, we had to end up sometimes painting into the next part, say the door to match the color, and then buffing all of that side out so it matched. I dont know about Scratch-X, have heard good and bad things about it, I only use Zaino products but have alot of different 3m rubbing compounds for more difficult paint cleaning. DanF
Well its only the bumper trim, so its not an exact match but it looks MUCH better now, because before the paint was flaking off..now its all uniform..I'm happy because it looks good for what I was capable of doing for the first time. Again, its not a MAJOR part of the car..now if I were to a a panel I would step back and say nooow way..but a plastic bumper trim..that's fine with me.. Thanks again! Also, my hood and fender (new) need painted..the thing I noticed is that when I wax my car BLACK paint comes off..so I assume I don't have a clear coat on my car..is that correct? So I will tell the shop not to clear coat, but instead put about 3-4 coats of base coat...what do you suggest?
Im sure it will work out fine for you to try whatever compound you want, just be gentle, dont rub really hard, just see what it does a little at a time. What year is your car ? If its black and black comes off when you wax it, your paint is dying. You would want a paint job that had clear in it to protect the paint and give it more depth. Unless you have experience and access to a paint booth, to remove the fumes and keep the car clean while painting, I would not recommend painting a car at home. Good luck with your project ! DanF
Please check your spelling - "Schwarz" is the word for Black in German. The spelling ending in 'tz' (like the toy store) is a Yiddish spelling of the same word. You should be able to get paint pencils of "Schwarz" at the parts department of your local BMW dealer. Don't know if they have spray cans.
SPELLING - "Schwarz" is the German word for black -- the variant ending in 'tz' (like the toy store) is the Yiddish spelling.
