Were you actually able to get that plate off of the throttle body without stripping or breaking any of the 3 screws? I tried on my E30, but just ended up bypassing the TB heater.
Car was being b-word . Fired up initially before i put the exhaust manifolds on and installed radiator. Now it just cranks, has spark and fuel is going to the rail but don't know yet if pressure is good.Installed new plugs, tested wires, triple checked timing, tried another fpr, cps, another coil, another set of relays, another dme.. Fired once, didn't want to start again, just cranks. After doing some re-search c191 might be an issue.... or fuel related. Was tired of working on the engine, replaced seats and started cleaning up interior a little bit... timing marks were checked more than once sport seats installed w/o any issues. sunroof works ha, spot the finger
Well, it turned out to be a bad fuel pump after checking various things. I installed one out of my old 540i parts car and all these start/no start issues went away. Actually was able to drive the car in 1st/reverse for the first time. But, it needs a radiator and one of the hoses near the fuse box. On to the pics. Made some room to get to the c191 to check it out Who thought of this ? lol what a mess. c191 injector harness plug, mine didn't have any issues. Since re-seating this plug didn't solve the issue I was left with pulling the pump. Great, it's different from the pump I had on hand from my 540i parts car.... the 540i pump is rated at 3.5 bar vs this 3.0 bar m20 pump, but i gave this m60 pump shot and bypassed the built int fpr looking thing since there is an fpr at the fuel rail.
And it's up and running . after about 10 minutes of sitting at idle, w/o clutch fan Of course you fix one thing, and you find another problem... leaking radiator, nice. kind of looks like it's got a little bulge going there... heater valve hoses mess ... actually it's not that bad, it all comes out fairly easy. Sexy e34 *** haha Cleaned up the valve cover a little bit, it was way too dirty.. Left to do/ fix: - replace old fuel lines - install correct fuel pump - replace radiator - replace clutch fan blade Does anybody know for sure if e36 m50 radiator can be used with late model m20b25s? The reason is I could purchase an aluminum radiator that I can re-use in my e30 with m60 (e36 m50 radiators can be used with m60 according to a thread on bfc with correct radiator hose(s) [euro m60 cars w/o ac]). Or maybe even e34 m30 radiator? I don't want to buy an e34 m20 radiator that will be useless to me with m30b35 OR m60b40.
Great progress!!!! Glad you cleaned up the valve cover!!! Looks 100% better! Sorry I am no help regarding the radiator. Is this one leaking badly? Can you nurse it along till you get the M30 into it? Maybe set it up with an IV! LOL
Jean, You've showed me more stuff about an e34 than I've learned from 19-yrs of ownership. Please, keep it coming. Jon
Jon - I made some more progres today, pics coming up It's been almost exactly a month since the purchase, and it's up and running! Still need to address a few things, but one thing at a time. Thanks for r3v member, got a set of black door panels to replace the tan/old panels. Ended up not replacing the radiator for now, and just replaced the o-rings on the exp. tank, thanks for the suggestions! Napa/CarQuest had correct size o-rings, the large one was over $10! Must have been straight from BMW dealer lol. Pics of the radiator / exp tank / o-rings in question.
Getting the car on the lift to replace the old/original fuel lines and inspect the rest etc.. It's spotless! Front suspension parts more of the same
Waiting for exaust hangers ..... rear suspension pics. Muffler is in awesome condition too :] control arm, fuel filter, bald tire driver side control arm Hmm, looks like these might have been done before...
Rear diff Guibo will need to be replaced, along with tranny mounts. I think i still have a set of spare / nib mounts. Fuel lines replaced Front end / sway bar / steering arm Bleeding coolant / had LOTS of air Stock m20 engine bay... hot
And it drives! Needs shocks/springs/suspension/tires next... Next to fix / figure out why it's not working - HEATER. Seems like no heat is going to /from the heater core. The hose at the back of the head is HOT, but the return hose is COLD. Need to look though ETM and figure out what's not working.
Any e34 climate control gurus here? Looking at the 89 ETM right now, but if there are any specific tips/suggestions/known issues to check for I am all ears. My blower fan works, my a/c compressor kicks in, the idle speed goes up as normal when a/c is on, defroster button lights up and so does recirc. All fuses have been checked with an ohm meter as well. When the temp. dials are turned even all the way to the right there is no hot or even warm air coming out of the vents. The vent controls (cables) are working as well, so I am trying to confirm exactly what might be blocking or not allowing heat to either flow through the heater core OR maybe the fan is not picking up the hot air from the core. Looking at the ETM I should probably start by checking the K50 (water pump relay),M37 water pump, Y4 (water valve assembly), maybe even flap motors (5 of them ouch), IHKR switch. Right now I can only eliminate the blower motor, blower relay k4, and maybe the final stage unit N2 since the blower circuit works. Now, the integrated climate regulation switch (air volume control wheel) is the temp control wheel yes? Whatever this is it's tied directly in series with the Y4 water valve assembly, and looking at the chart completed the circuit in position 1 (automatic control) vs position 2 (maximum heating). The other end of the water valve assembly Y4 is connected to the IHKR module. The module has left/right heat exchange sensors, evap sensor and outside temp sensors connected to it; along with integrated climate regulation switch (inside air temp sensor / inside temp sensor blower). Looking further down, I see there is a M34 Dash Vent Mixing Flap Motor also connected to the IHKR module. If I understand this correctly, this is the motor that closes/opens the flap for the fan to blow the air from either the heater core or the a/c evap core, is this correct? The other 3 flap motors are for the left footwell, air recirc flap and fresh air flap. M37 water pump is in the same area as the Y4. Gets it's power form the X122 2 pin plug (via K50 relay and F9 15amp fuse). F29 7.5amp fuse controls the relay switch side (connected to the IHKR unit via X35 plug). Y4 is the thing with bunch of hoses going to it next the firewall / fuse box on the driver side in the engine bay. Gets power form the X85 3 pin plug. There are two electrical connectors on it - X85 3 pin and X122 2 pin. K50 is located in the driver side relay / fuse box. M34 or "right mixing flap motor" is behind the center dash, RH side of radio. (this will be fun to get to). --- So, I'll check the K50 relay , M37 water pump and Y4 valve. Hopefully it will be one of these, and not the IHKR module or one of many flap motors.... ARGH
I think IHKR's can be a weak point - I was only getting warm airflow when driving, if I recall, it took the higher rpms from running to get the coolant pushed through a malfunctioning aux. water valve (a common problem, I think - took forever to get the interior warmed in winter), can't remember if my car has an aux. water pump. Tried a used water valve off ebay, it worked - cheaper than new, but a risk if it didn't. Sounds like you're being appropriately methodical in checking through it all. hope you work it out! Moosehead will know more - would have been better to make this a new thread than tack it onto this one, just fyi. Good luck!
Jean "Thanks for r3v member, got a set of black door panels to replace the tan/old panels." Did you buy the panels from r3v or from BMW? If you found a source other than BMW, I'm really interested. Jon
Dashed my little dream...................... I was thinking I had a line on some replacement door panels. Oh well.
First things first, check to see if you have a microfilter. If it gets clogged it can severly block airflow. If you have one it requires removal of the glove box to access, which is why most of them I see are completely clogged. Next, put it in full heat and see if the hose to the core gets hot. If not, you will want to check to see if you are getting the correct signals to the heater valve(s). I am not sure about your car, but I know the later cars default to fully open when the power is removed from the heater valves. I am pretty sure that is the case with your car as well. You will also need to bleed the car with the heat on full blast to make sure there is not an air bubble in the heater core.
No microfilter on pre 90 cars iirc. I now have a spare valve and electric motor in case the ones in the car are bad. There was LOTS of air, but bleeding through the top radiator hose seemed to rid of air, and only coolant was coming out of tstat and car stays at exactly 1/2 mark when sitting at idle. I will find out more this week and report back.
Made a little more progress today. Swapped the door panels, replaced the broken door brake. Also tested voltage to the water pump/heater valve. Now I have heat after replacing a relay. Drove the car for the first time about 20 miles, made it home haha. It did hesitate once like it was running out of gas, so I'll probably swap the fuel pump and filter next. On to pics Need to find a matching black cover I know lol
