OK... You don't buy a $45K BMW for 12% of what it was worth new, and not expect to have to change any parts. Like the new battery I bought yesterday. My recently purchased 2000 528i with 145k miles is still running on the original clutch. This situation is not going to last. In fact, I've noticed that the clutch is slipping now (although the car is still drivable). What should I keep in mind when clutch replacement time comes along, and what can I do now to prolong the clutch life so I can buy myself another month or so of use?
When it's time to replace the clutch have extra money just incase the flywheel has to be replaced. Sometimes they can be reused and resurfaced. If they can be resurfaced there is still a risk that it can cause some shudder or noise when taking off in 1st gear from a complete stop. Transmission mounts, output shaft seal, selector shaft seal, guibo, or shifter bushings/linkages may have to be replaced as well. There's also the rear main seal which should be inspected and the pilot bearing should be replaced. To prolong the clutch life try to avoid stop and go traffic/city street driving, less shifting, and less aggressive driving/shifting.
this, also when you shift, don't do it slowly and leave the clutch down, shift quickly but not aggressively, I managed to get a winter beater Subaru through an entire winter even though it had a really bad clutch right from when I bought it so I know what I'm talking about
I can't avoid the city driving, but my commute is short. I'll just avoid full throttle which is when the clutch slips. Does the 528i have a clutch delay valve? Is there any preference on brands of clutches? Any type that would be an upgrade? Is there an upgrade kit for the shift linkage to tighten it up? The clutch engages smoothly so I hope the flywheel is OK. After all, it made it to 145k on an original clutch.
Since you have a 2000 model year then yes it's highly likely that you do have a clutch delay valve. Stick with the factory OEM clutch kit.
clutch I did mine by getting the OEM Luk Flywheel from autozone ($400) and the OEM (sachs iirc) clutch/p plate/throwout bearing for about $300. I also replaced the pilot bearing, a bunch of seals in the tranny (and the rear main seal on the motor). It was straightforward and all it really requires in the way of special tools is the Torx for the flywheel (which because it's a multi-mass flywheel can't be resurfaced).
I got the clutch replaced yesterday. Used a Sachs clutch kit from BMA (I noticed the disk had Luk branding). Also replaced the selector shaft seal and pilot bearing. Fortunately the other items were OK. Replaced the transmission fluid (Redline MTL) and differential (Redline 75W90). The pressure plate was a little "burnt" from all the clutch slipping. The flywheel had similar wear, but it could be resurfaced (phew!) I had it done by Stan Kim, and independent BMW mechanic in Glendale CA, who came recommended from some of the local owners here. I might still consider the clutch delay valve delete, but right now I'm just reeling from this unexpected expense 10 days after buying the car. But now I have a new clutch, and no car payment
My buddy did that with his E39 540i and said it was one of the best mods he could have done to that car.
My first outing in a manual car was in an E39 540i with a clutch delay valve. No wonder I couldn't learn a damned thing until I hopped into a 75hp Lada that wouldn't even know what a clutch delay valve was. What a difference. That has got to be one of the first voluntary things you do to the car!
Can someone bring me up to speed on what a clutch delay valve is and whether I should be making some modifications to my 2003 540 M-Sport 6 speed. Appreciate any insight you might provide. Mark
