Two fuses in one week. What's up? Vehicle: 2001 540iA, 100k mi. No recent work on the electrical system nor major water exposure (that could cause electrical shorts). Description of Problem: My remote keys stopped working last week. I used the key in the door lock for three days (I forgot what a pain that is) before I had time to research my non-working remotes. After some poking around in the Bentley manual, found the blown 7.5 amp fuse for the central locking system on the trunk fuse panel. Replaced the blown fuse and all of the remote keys started working. I drove the car two days and the remotes stopped working again yesterday. Question: I'll pop another 7.5 amp fuse in there today, but I wanted to see if anyone else has had a similar issue and how many more fuses I should replace before I should start looking for other causes for these fuses to keep blowing? As always, thanks for any help.
Fuel door actuator That is a common problem - that fuse is for the actuator for the fuel flap lock. Since it is blowing it means the actuator has failed. You can temporarly disconnect it but you will have to replace it. The unit is located on the interior fender above the fuses. It has a lead up to the latch pin. Can be tricky to change. There is also the manual release pull on it so make sure you reattach that when you replace the unit. Cheers Jim Cash
Help with Fuel Door Actuator If I did this correctly, you should be able to paste this address into your web browser and see another DIYer's description of the R&R on the fuel door actuator. http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e39/6406703-1.html I just unplugged the little bugger for now and I'll replace the actuator when I have more time. In the interim, all of my remote keys are working fine now and I have not had any problems with the fuse (confirming that the fuel door actuator is, in fact, dead). Of course my fuel door is permanently unlocked.
Congrats...it appears that you may have pinpointed the problem. I'm almost sure that it really doesn't matter if the fuel door is always unlocked cause we have antisiphon valves in the filler necks, correct? I think it would only matter if you were concerned with someone trying to put something into your tank...
I had this same exact problem on my 01 M5 #53 7.5A fuse was blown. My remote access on both my keys stopped working. I replaced the fuse which did not resolve the problem. I tried the key reinitialization procedure which I could'nt get to work. I tried pulling other fuses and checked them everything else seemed to be ok. I even pulled the ground on battery to "reset" everything. Since that point I have a new symptom.....now the beast wont start. I don't know if it's because I pulled the immobilizer fuse or something larger. The battery is good I measured the voltage plus it's only like a month old. At this point it sounds like I have to take it in or tow it in I should say. Is this kind of issue something only a dealer can handle or do Indy shops have the equipment for this?
