I installed new clutch on 1999 540i....after doing so clutch pedal feels really soft....so i bled the slave cylinder manually....still soft....car runs great...is this normal?
When i bleed, how many pumps at a time? How many times would it take to feel that pedal get right again...just need an idea....Thanks
I tend to use a couple of different methods. I will often put a hose on the bleeder, open it, push the pedal to the floor and let it gravity bleed for a while, close the bleeder and slowly bring the pedal back up. I did get bitten on that one once when the customer was waiting and the pedal was totally gone after doing that. I had to try plan B then, which was to use a vacuum bleeder. You may have to put teflon tape on the bleeder nipple threads to keep from sucking air past them, but it is the the most effective and cleanest way to do it.
Ok i see....well looks like i might have to take to a local shop if vac bleeder is needed....darn it. Oh well, It Is What It Is....Thanks again
I have been using the Bavarian Autosport pressure bleeder for about 5 years now and have been very happy with it. It pays for itself the first time you use it. I think they now even come with a nice feature that makes screwing it onto the brake fluid reservoir easier. Just keep an eye on the level of fluid in it, you don't want to run it dry and blow air into your system. Don't ask me how I know! Fortunately it was on my 318i which doesn't have ABS and I was bleeding the clutch at the time. So it was quickly corrected! But on a car with ABS you don't want to get air into the ABS system, particularly the newer ones with traction control. So just be careful. GR
After installing a new clutch the clutch was soft. Did you bleed or disconnect the slave during the job? Did you replace the clutch with an OEM clutch or an aftermarket one?
Oh, I also forgot, was the SAC reinstalled or did you go aftermarket? What about the CDV, did you remove that?
No i did not use aftermarket clutch. I purshased oem (Luk sac) clutch from Bavarian and had the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop. I did try bleeding the system prior to doing the work when i noticed clutch slipping and did that hoping that was the reason for slip on clutch. As for the cdv, i removed it about 700 miles prior to this whole incident and after removing that item clutch felt normal(DID NOT BLEED). I made sure the fluid level was on point and on i went.....
Hey guys one more thing....Im planning on using pressure bleeder on master cylinder im sure you agree but im looking at bently manual and it suggest i remove slave cylinder and compress rod into cylinder with a special tool do i have to do both? Im confused
When you say you "notice clutch sleeping" do you mean seeping or slipping. I'm surprised you were able to remove the CDV without bleeding the system. Is the bleed nipple on the 540 slave pointed down or near the bottom of the slave body? If so, to get the air out, you may need to pull the slave and compress piston while simultaneously cracking the nipple.
It looks like you posted before I sent my last message but the procedure you mention in the Bentley is what I was referring to. Although I didn't realize it was listed in the Bentley. You don't need special tool though just 3 arms or 2 arms and some patience. Also the pressure bleeder is not much help for clutch bleeding, IMHO. I wont hurt though.
Since Bentley mentioned bleeding it by the same method I mentioned it is most likely pointed down. I've "heard" people claim they have just let the clutch sit overnight and the air worked itself up but I doubt it. You could however pull the slave and let it hang overnight oriented so that the air will rise back up to the master.
I flush my brake system every year in my BMWs including the clutch. I also replaced both my master and slave clutch cylinders on my one and then bleed the system with everything installed, even though the nipple points down. I was able to get all the air out with just my pressure bleeder. I did have a helper in the car pressing in the clutch pedal. When they push the pedal in have the bleeder valve open and then closed when they let the pedal out (foot off). Just be sure that you have the valve closed when they let the pedal out (engaging the clutch) other wise it will suck air in through the threads around the nipple. Long story short, it is possible, just be patient. Once you do get the air out, future fluid flushes are a breeze as long as you don't introduce new air to the system! Hope this helps. GR
Yes I did. With just the pressure bleeder I could tell there was still air in the system. So I thought I would try and have someone press the clutch pedal. That really worked, a lot of air bubbles started coming out. It was between 5 and 10 pedal pushes and then I didn't get any more air. If you get a pressure bleeder, don't over pressure the system. 15 to 20 psi is all you need. If you go higher you run the risk of forcing fluid out between the resevior and the master brake cylinder among other things. I did not have any issue doing both at the same time. GR
